this week is guide-madness at d*s. we started with yesterday’s chandelier guide and will finish with 4 gift guides starting at 12 pm today. but before i launch the first gift guide i wanted to post a new city guide: baltimore!

i associate charm city with john waters, duff goldman and his motley crew of bakers so it’s wonderful to have more fantastic shops and personalities to associate with baltimore. baltimore designers anne ditmeyer of prêt à voyager and felice cleveland (who was a d*s scholarship finalist!) are to thanks for this wonderful guide- and the personalized google map with everything marked out. i can’t thank them enough for the wonderful guide to eating, shopping and all-around fun in the baltimore area. so, click here to view the full guide, or just click “read more” below!

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Baltimore D*S Guide by Felice Cleveland and Anne Ditmeyer

Baltimore is unlike any other city in more ways than you can imagine.
You may doubt how much more, but once you experience the Charm City Roller Girls brawl, the bee-hive hairdos, the largest community mosaic project ever, and lawns littered with pink flamingoes you will begin to understand why it is called “Charm City, USA” and the benches claim it as “Baltimore: The Greatest City in America.”

FEDERAL HILL / LOCUST POINT: South of the Inner Harbor this historic neighborhood offers plenty of local treasures for those exploring the city on foot.

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• AMERICAN VISIONARY ART MUSEUM- A wonderland of non-traditional art and one of our favorite places on Earth (Felice is also the Education Coordinator, regularly hosting cool workshops and events). Every May the KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE takes over the city as these vehicles make their way through water, sand, mud and the streets of Baltimore! Also check out BAZAART a holiday mart the weekend after Thanksgiving, offering a welcome alternative to mall madness. Check the website for Events of the Visionary Kind.
• GALLERY IMPERATO– a historic building housing relevant contemporary work in a range of media
• SCHOOL 33 – Renovated schoolhouse with gallery spaces offering workshops for those interested in experimenting in a new medium. The sponsor for the October OPEN STUDIO TOURS, artists around town open their doors to the public.

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• HOLLY G– Classy interior and expensive but beautiful clothes
• SIDESHOW @ AVAM- Arguably the world’s best museum gift shop and a marvelous source for discount art books.

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• BALTIMORE CUPCAKE COMPANY– Charming pink shop devoted solely to cupcakes. Every day offers up different flavors.
• DANGEROUSLY DELICIOUS PIES– Sweet and savory plus they will ship them anywhere in the U.S. for you. In their words: “a force to be reckoned with.”
• L.P. STEAMERS– No trip to Baltimore in the summer is complete without crabs and old bay. Head out to Locust Point to get your hands dirty as you crack open your pile of crabs – it’s like being a kid again and getting to play with your food! Hard work, but worth the reward.
• MATSURI– Quaint Japanese that is the real deal.
• THAI ARROY– Worth it just for the mango sticky rice, but everything else is great too.

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• WATERBALLET @ Riverside Park- Fluid Movement’s annual summer extravaganza! Synchronized swimming meets performance art meets anything else you can think of! (Performances also take place in Patterson Park, but we prefer it here because pre-show you can stop by and pick up a Sno-ball for a snack - crushed ice with flavored syrup, and marshmallow fluff on top (a Baltimore tradition!)- at Mercado’s on Heath Street.)

MOUNT VERNON CULTURAL DISTRICT– The heart and soul of downtown. The center is the original Washington Monument and surrounding parks.

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• BALTIMORE SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA- The new director/conductor Marin Alsop has inspired new energy in the symphony hall that is also undergoing some changes. Noteworthy selections last season include collaborations with tap-dancer Savion Glover, rock musician Ben Folds, as well as National Geographic nature photographer Franz Lanting’s images choreographed to the music of Baltimore composer Philip Glass.
• CENTERSTAGE– Regional theater with all of the design executed on site. In addition to their regular season keep your eyes open for exciting events. STOOP STORYTELLING has recently adopted CENTERSTAGE as their new home (after out growing their space at CREATIVE ALLIANCE). An event where 7 locals are invited to tell a 7 minute story on a given theme, Monday nights throughout the year.
• CRAIG FLINNER GALLERY– Your downtown source for all your framing needs, but we love it for their seemingly endless collection of vintage posters – mainly from Europe - that will cover your wall or fit nicely in a small frame.
• CURRENT– Downtown artist collective and gallery space, which regularly opens their doors for new shows. Features a lot of young artist and MICA graduates.
• MARYLAND ART PLACE– a cultural respite for Inner Harbor go-ers.
• PEABODY LIBRARY– A quiet place which feels like traveling back in time.
• THEATRE PROJECT - Great venue for community theater, and worth a visit just for the striking posters by Baltimore’s own Dave Plunkert of SPUR DESIGN (This husband [Dave Plunkert] and wife [Joyce Hesselberth] team has recently started PRESTO BINGO, their own line of kid-friendly art (but its good for adults too!)).
• WALTER’S ART MUSEUM- A free museum with an incredible diverse range of art.

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• A PEOPLE UNITED– A store with a mission, don’t miss the exotic furniture from far reaches downstairs.
• WILLIAM BAUMGARTEN CO. – This shop feels a bit like stepping back in time where you can bring in a hand-drawn sketch or a print out (no disks or files needed here but they’ll take that too) and like magic you’ll have your very own rubber stamp made in less than a day.
• WOMAN’S INDUSTRIAL EXCHANGE– Local non-profit that’s been around for over 130 years. Goods made by disadvantaged women and men who receive the profits from sales. Great place for hand-knitted goods for children, unique jewelry and other one-of-a-kind gifts. Head downstairs to grab a fresh crepe at the counter of the new SOFI’S location.
• THE ZONE (813 North Charles)– Hands down the best vintage in town, and a great source for fabulous costume jewelry, with nothing that will empty your wallet.

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• BREWER’S ART– Favorite stop for local beer and the Baltimore scene. (Be warned about The Resurrection, it is a smooth one!). Try to score one of the nooks in the basement.
• DOWNTOWN FARMER’S MARKET – If you know ANYONE who lives in Baltimore, chances are good that you’ll run into them here. The Sunday market under I-83 is part of pretty much everyone’s weekly routine. Even if you don’t need to grocery shop there are plenty of local artisans and food vendors with delicious options.
• DUKEM– Authentic Ethopian, more than enough to share!
• THE HELMAND- An inviting interior and warm staff welcome you in this restaurant owned by the brother of the Prime Minister of Afghanistan. The Kaddo Borawani (baby pumpkin) is unforgettable.
• IGGIE’S- Local brick oven pizza and BYOB plus all the tips are donated to a local charity. Dog friendly.
• XS– sushi + coffee + gelato + more

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• BALTIMORE BOOK FESTIVAL– A weekend in the fall around the Monument with everything books. (Last year Tim Gunn of Project Runway was here promoting his new book.)

STATION ARTS NORTH CULTURE DISTRICT– Up and coming hipster central.

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• THE CHARLES– Warehouse turned theater with tons of independent films and festivals.
• EVERYMAN THEATER– Local theater featuring hot local talent. Stay tuned for their new space coming soon…

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• CLUB CHARLES (1724 N Charles)– Dark and cool, a good place to be seen.
• SOFI’S CREPES– The perfect dessert post-movie (or pre-movie!)
• TAPAS TEATRO– One of those places where you could sit and talk to friends for hours and completely lose track of time. The closely arranged tables also encourage mingling with dining neighbors. Summer is the best time to grab a table outside, people watch, sip sangria and nibble on an array of tasty tapas. If the night is still young, order a beer and take it next door for a film.
• ZODIAC– Inventive vegetarian with good people watching. Don’t forget to have Zoltan tell your fortune before heading out!

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• VELOCIPEDE BIKE PROJECT– A collective to help educate people about bike repair and construction.

BOLTON HILL- home to Maryland Institute College of Art [MICA] (translation: home to tons of funky art students)

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• FOX BUILDING/DECKER GALLERIES @ MICA– see website for current student shows and events. Recently the hand-drawn lettering show “ALPHABET” (created in conjunction with Artscape 2006 and curated by the dynamic design duo, Nolen Strals and Bruce Willen of POSTTYPOGRAPHY, made its’ way up to NYC to be seen at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum.
• LOAD OF FUN- Converted furniture warehouse (the name comes from the letters of the old sign: LOMBARD OFFICE FURNITURE, but is also true of the happenings that occur here). Currently artist studios with openings throughout the year and host to a summer flea market [note: neighborhood best avoided at night].

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• B- European style bistro nestled in Bolton Hill. A mélange of Mediterranean and Californian fare, keep an eye out for their innovative specials and weekly wine deals.
• MT. ROYAL TAVERN (1204 W Mount Royal Ave)– The perfect dive bar if you’re looking to rub elbows with the art student crowd. Wear your skinny jeans, order a Natty Boh (translation: NATIONAL BOHEMIAN, look for this guy around town) and don’t forget to look up and check out the unexpected ceiling mural.

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• ARTSCAPE- Nation’s largest free arts festival that takes place around MICA and UB every summer. Also check out WHARTSCAPE the alternative to Artscape, where all the people who don’t fit in hang out with their own shows and performances.

CHARLES VILLAGE– College town (Johns Hopkins University) with a neighborhood feel.

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• BALTIMORE MUSEUM OF ART– Extensive and free, they even offer yoga in the sculpture garden.

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• THE BOOK THING – Free books for the price of a smile.
• CHARM CITY CRAFT MAFIA– Local indie crafters who sponsor several shows throughout the year to sell and show of their handmade wares.

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• AMBASSADOR– An incredible Royal Indian brunch/lunch with a beautiful garden terrace. (Don’t leave without at least one serving of rice pudding!)
• CARMA’S CAFÉ (3120 Saint Paul St)– Off the main strip, quaint and a perfect spot to sip coffee while reading the URBANITE OR CITYPAPER. Start with a breakfast of homemade Icelandic-style yogurt or granola before heading to the BMA (see above).
• MISS SHIRLEY’S- Gourmet brunch where the eggs benedict with fried-green tomatoes is not to be missed!
• ONE WORLD CAFE– Hip but not hippy vegetarian + coffee.

HAMPDEN/REMINGTON– Heart of Baltimore’s funk and kitsch.

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• CLIPPER MILL ARTIST STUDIOS- Industrial park converted into loft style apartments and artist studios (Don’t miss CORRADETTI – glass blowing studio and gallery where you can sign up for a workshop and try the craft yourself or GUTIERREZ STUDIOS – custom metalwork in an old foundry building).
• CHARM CITY CAKES– Where the magic and zaniness of the Food Network’s “Ace of Cakes” happens. Not open to the public, but head to PAPER MOON DINER or DIZZY ISSIE’S (300 W 30th St) and you may just see the cameras rolling or spot Duff walking down the street.

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• ATOMIC POP- Sister store of Atomic Books around the corner with a large collection of design books and pop gifts.
• CHELLÉ PAPERIE– The paper wall is enough to bring tears to this book-binders eyes. An array of beautiful paper products. Their motto: “style like this isn’t mass produced.”
• DOUBLE DUTCH– Cute and funky clothing and accessories that won’t break the bank, many by local artisans. The friendly interior is a perfect compliment to the products. Every first Friday night of the month they sponsor a “Shopper’s Social” with DJ, drinks and 10% discount on everything in the store. (This is one of our favorite shops!)
• FORM, A DESIGNER’S BOUTIQUE – Amazing fabrics and designers, we’d buy everything in this store if only we could afford it. Perfect for special occasions or a splurge.
• GILAH PRESS– Kat Feuerstein’s, a MICA graduate, is the force behind this local letterpress studio. The space is welcoming and nurtures many creative impulses. Housing multiple presses and everything a printer would need to create the exact card or invitation you were hoping for. Open by appointment only.
• HOMETOWN GIRL & CO– If you’re determined to bring back a souvenir, this is the place to do it with true Baltimore flavor. Crabs and pink flamingoes [seriously, Baltimore is the home to director John Waters whose repertoire includes the films “Pink Flamingos” and “Hairspray”] are aplenty. And if you need a break from shopping, stop by the nostalgia filled soda fountain in the back.
• IN WATERMELON SUGAR (3555 Chestnut Ave)– A wonderland of items for the bath, kitchen and bedroom that will turn any house into a home.
• MA PETITE SHOE– Chocolate + shoes, need we say more?
• MILAGRO (1005 West 36th St) – Vibrant shop where Frida Kahlo and Dia De Muertos come alive through jewelry, clothes, bags and knick-knacks.
• MINÁS (815 W 36th St) – Vintage clothing downstairs, art gallery upstairs.
• OAKENSHAWE ANTIQUES– Nineteenth and 20th century “antiques” with a twist of retro.
• PARADISO (1015 W 36th St) – A quality mixture of new and old furniture with great accessories and lamps for that added charm. Showcasing the works of both national and local artists and designers.
• RED TREE– A constantly changing showroom of “goods from around the world and around the corner.”
• SHINE COLLECTIVE– Clothes, home accessories, jewelry and more for anyone with a keen eye for design. They also have a fabulous collection of old records – perfect for the music or the covers!
• TYPECAST PRESS– We first met Mary at a trip to Housewerks where she regularly checks in for printing tools and typecast letters that have been salvaged as she follows her true passion of letterpress printing. Call ahead to schedule a studio visit.

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• COMMON GROUND (819 W 36th St)– What a local coffee shop should be. After a stroll through the stores on 36th, end your afternoon here with a coffee and the daily special. I always sprawl out on the vintage couch hidden in the back room.
• DOGWOOD DELI- The owners love food and by using nature as their inspiration they try to keep their menu as organic as possible.
• ROCKET TO VENUS– Set in an unsuspecting neighborhood, you may feel as though you are no longer in Baltimore with the feel of a cool diner but then another glance around the room chances are you will see someone you recognize. For out-of-towners who may be in doubt about the definition of a hipster, visit here after 9pm (and don’t leave without trying the pumpkin pierogies!)
• SOUPS ON– Homemade yumminess perfect for a meal on the go.

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• HONFEST– Quintessential Baltimore festival every June with beehive hairdos and cats-eye glasses where no one knows your name and everyone calls you “Hon”! Watch out for pink flamingos and Elvis sightings wile you’re at it.
• 34th STREET “CHRISTMAS” STREET- nothing short of a miracle, the lighting of this street has been a Baltimore staple for 50 years now, causing traffic jams nightly in this local Bmore neighborhood. If this seriously over-the-top holiday cheer doesn’t put you in the spirit, then nothing will.

FELLS POINT/INNER HARBOR EAST- Walk along the harbor’s cobblestone streets and discover the energy that is being infused into Baltimore.

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• BLUEHOUSE- Welcoming fair-trade coffee stop and shop for environmentally friendly interiors. Most of their products are either recycled or reclaimed. We love the thoughtful design that promotes an “eco-friendly lifestyle.”
• CUPCAKE– Upscale clothing boutique perfect for those pieces that will really add to any wardrobe.
• ECLECTIC ELEMENTS– True to its name, the place to find unrivaled cultural pieces that will set your home apart.
• HARBOR NEWS– Every magazine you have ever wanted and all the ones you didn’t even know existed.
• KASHMIR IMPORTS– Astonishing array of hand-embroidered shawls and jackets, authentic silk scarves in all the colors of India, plus many more unique finds.
• TRIXIE’S PALACE– A funky little place along the water filled with great gifts that aren’t afraid of color, including matchless clothes, bags, and jewelry.

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• BLACK OLIVE– Greek fare featuring organic fish and quality produce.
• LEBANESE TAVERNA- Traditional fare in a classy and contemporary setting with a friendly waitstaff.
• PAZO– Converted warehouse, inspired interior for hip tapas dining.

PATTERSON PARK– The best backyard in Baltimore.

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• CREATIVE ALLIANCE AT THE PATTERSON- Dynamic center for the arts—with regular shows, performances, residencies and programming. The fall “Art to Dine For” fundraising series is worth checking out as many prominent arts-savvy locals open their homes and galleries in creative ways to support a worthy cause – the perfect excuse to try something new. (Examples range from Samba with Maria Broom (a celebrity on HBO’s THE WIRE) at the recently re-modeled School for the Arts to glazing and firing your own raku bowl before eating a home-cooked Japanese meal.)
• PATTERSON BOWLING CENTER – Duck-pin bowling Baltimore style, BYOB.
• PATTERSON PARK– Take a walk to check out the pagoda and get a view of Russian Orthodox Church (like something out of Aladdin). The park is especially nice during the HALLOWEEN LANTERN PARADE (make sure you stay for the SHADOW PUPPET SHOW of awe-inspiring projections “performed” in real time from three overhead projectors, and accompanied by a live band). Also an alternative location for the WATERBALLET (for more details check out FEDERAL HILL/LOCUST POINT).

• Checked all that off your list? Then here’s [Balti]MORE

  *If you still have time and want to head a little further outside of Baltimore proper, keep heading east after Fells point and stop by CANTON. Lots of little shops and restaurants line Canton Square (an area thriving with young professionals). We’d suggest HELEN’S GARDEN for brunch and the new women’s clothing boutique, NECTAR.

  *If you want to head North, BELVEDERE SQUARE, offers a lot of unique local shops in an easy walk. Start at BELVEDERE MARKET for an upscale European-style market experience for lunch or GRAND CRU for a wine tasting around local art work. THE DUTCH CONNECTION is a beautiful flower shop that transports us back to Paris. SIMPLY NOTED can fulfill all your paper and stationery dreams (pick up a copy of PAPER DOLL magazine to discover the latest in the Baltimore fashion and shopping scene). NOUVEAU offers the best in contemporary furniture. DAEDALUS offers great discounts on books. And if you’re still up for more, check out a flick at THE SENATOR, if only all movie theaters still looked like this.

  *Leaving the rush of Baltimore city, find a bit of quiet in the village of MT. WASHINGTON (just to the north). Visit CLAYWORKS a non-profit ceramic art center featuring a gallery and shop of local artisans. Down the street JEAN POOL is the place for casual and hip clothing with a philanthropic spin. End your day with dinner at ETHEL & RAMONE’S, (you’ll know it by the fork-raising Buddha on the sign) spicy-kick Creole in a cozy cottage setting.

  OFF THE BEATEN PATH:

  *CHARM CITY ROLLER GIRL DERBY– an experience not to be missed - Just think of it as “hipster Nascar” with girls getting down and dirty on the roller rink. We suggest sitting rink-side (at your own risk though and not for those under age 18), sipping on some Dr. Pepper, munching on a pickle and enjoying the show (which is as much on the rink as in the crowd!)

  *HOME ANTHOLOGY– Beautiful pieces for the home. “A haven for lovers of all things deco, retro and mid-century modern.”

  * HOUSEWERKS- Architectural savage yard in an incredible old building. Finds range from a priest’s confessional, to cool old signs, or type for an old letterpress. A website that we rank among our favorites and worth checking out yourself (designed by the lovely ladies at Baltimore-based design firm, Six*Ink).

  * SECOND CHANCE- Like a glorified garage sale of stuff you actually want to buy. Take your time to peruse the multiple warehouse spaces with potential treasures at every turn. Items range from Victorian-era chairs to actual props from “The Wire.”

  GETTING THERE:

  * 1 hour from DC, $7 on the MARC commuter train (weekdays only; Amtrak runs on the weekend). The more frequent “Penn Line” takes you downtown, while the “Camden Line” drops you outside of Camden Yards (home of the Orioles)

  * An easy train ride from Philly or NYC on Amtrak, or $30 roundtrip on the Chinatown bus

  * BWI airport offers great deals on international flights, and the light rail takes you right into Downtown.

  GETTING AROUND:

  * Life is easiest with a car, but we both live without one. Luckily Baltimore has Flex Car (which is even better news now that they have merged with ZipCar) for those visiting the city sans wheels

  * Public transportation on the MTA is $1.60 (exact change) but may require a bit of patience and a good book.

  * Many of our picks are walkable, but are readily available for the few areas of town that should be avoided.