
we’ve been dying to put together a paris guide for so long, and now that our paris roundup has come to a close we thought it would be the perfect time. since it’s been awhile since i lived in my beloved city, i called on the help of the designers from the roundup, to add a fresh parisian touch to my favorite places to create a great guide for the design lover (and a few other ideas too to help you channel your inner amelie). we hope this helps on your next trip to the city of lights. and by all means, don’t be afraid to veer off course or get lost (that’s how you find the best secrets of the city) – we just ask the you share any of your discoveries with us in the comments. bon voyage! -anne
CLICK HERE for the full guide, or click “read more” below.
[paris rooftops by david bacher]
View Larger Map
LES MUSEES [MUSEUMS]:
Paris has no lack of museums to pick from, but here are a few of our favorites. It’s always a good idea to see what shows are happening (posters in the metro are a great way to get a sense what you may want to see), as you may not be interested in a particular museum, but your favorite artist happens to be there. Picking up a copy of ParisVoice (English speaking magazine aimed at expats), TimeOut: Paris (both are available at WHSmith, an English language bookstore on Rue de Rivoli across from the Tuillerie gardens) or Pariscope (for sale for less than 1 Euro at newstands . . . also good for theatre and movie times) will definitely have the most current information. Also, be sure to check opening hours before you head out (many museums are closed either Monday or Tuesday). Better yet, check for the days that the museum is open late. This not only allows you to take advantage of daylight hours when shops are open, but it means shorter lines, fewer crowds and discounted ticket prices.
LOUVRE
I dare you to go to Paris and skip the Louvre. Despite being the most well known of the bunch, it can be overwhelming (even after a semester long course I was not able to see it all!). If you do go, try Wednesday or Friday evenings for discounted prices and lighter crowds. And if the Mona Lisa is on your “must-do” list, make sure you take the time to people watch, as watching peoples faces and reactions can be equally as satisfying as seeing the real deal.
MUSEE D’ORSAY
Premier museum for French Impressionist art, the museum is worth visiting just to see the architecture of this former gare [train station]. Visit the cafe upstairs for a beautiful view out of the clock/window towards Montmarte. Thursdays are the night the museum is open late.
MUSEE RODIN
While on the smaller side, this is the kind of place where you’d want to stay all day and hang out in the gardens surrounding the main museum. Filled with sculptures by Rodin, this is a delightful place to spend the afternoon pondering “The Thinker.”
MUSEE GUIMET
If you’ve never been to Asia, this is a great place to get a thorough overview of the culture. The museum layout and lack of tourists make it a peaceful visit.
PALAIS DE TOKYO
Typically not on the top of visitor’s to-do lists, this museum of contemporary French art should be. The changing exhibits will always give you something to think about, and even if you’re not a fan of the current show, you can process it over a beer at the bar or restaurant housed in the museum. Possibly the coolest thing about this museum is that it’s regular hours are open to midnight, making a visit a great evening activity (especially teamed with dinner in the buzzing restaurant). There is also a great bookstore inside with tons of design titles.
CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
Commonly referred to as the “eye sore” this modern museum was very controversial when it first opened, as it definitely stands out against the more traditional rooftops of Paris. Part of the experience is wandering the fountains around the building, taking in the street performers out front, and riding the clear escalators up to the top floor for amazing views of the city (the cafe may be pricey, but at least visit to check out their view and latest decor). The public library and film series are also worth checking out if you have the time. Museum is open until 11pm on Thursdays.
MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS
Another place in Paris where the bookstore shines as strong as the museum. Located just next to the Louvre along Rue du Rivoli, this museum may get lost to the typical tourist, but not to the designer. Anotine + Manual, graphiste et designer is just one example of great design on display.
MUSEE EUROPEENNE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE
A wonderful resource for photography in the city. The ever-changing shows that keep one coming back, and the extensive library, you can’t help but leave this place inspired and ready to break out your camera with a fresh eye. The center’s quaint location tucked in the Marais makes for an easy visit followed by a fresh pastry around the corner.
JEU DE PAUME
Inside the grounds of the Tuilleries gardens, this museum can be a quick stop off if the current exhibition interests you (it’s usually something good!). If you’re visiting in winter, head over to Angelina’s on Rue de Rivoli for hot chocolate to die for, or in summer, grab one of the chairs surrounding one of the fountains in the garden and kick your feet back for awhile and people watch to your heart’s content. (Colette is also walkable from here).
GALERIES
Small galleries are located all around the city, so don’t be afraid to pop in if something in the window piques your interest. Vernisage is the term used to describe an opening, so check for posters in windows, and maybe you can even snag a free glass of wine with your dose of art. Recently illustrator Steven Harrington had a show at the Lazy Dog near Bastille, so be sure to check out what’s happening there, as their shows tend to have strong graphic elements. Tools Galerie at 119, rue Vieille-du-Temple (75003) is another one with great contemporary design, while Galerie Baumet-Sultana at 20, rue Saint-Claude (75003) has a reputation for being the talk of the town. If your visiting in fall, keep your eye out for “open studios tours” where galleries all around the city open their doors in the evening and you can hop from one to another.
SPACE INVADERS – Guerrilla art project that pops up around the city (and the world) with tiled “space invaders” based on the 70s video game. It becomes a fun game to spot the little buggers around the city.
LES GRANDS MAGASINS [DEPARTMENT STORES]
Unlike the stigma many department stores have in the US, department stores in France are held in high regard. The architecture of many of them is incredible by itself, and window displays show off the latest fashions through exceptionally creative displays. The winter holidays are a real treat as the stores go all out (inside and out!). Several too are known for their amazing views of the city from the upper levels (La Samaritaine was always my personal favorite, but it was still closed at last report I heard). Also noteworthy are Les Soldes, the twice annual [January and July] mega sales that happen all around the city (at nearly all shops). Deep discounts are offered and the French and tourists alike jump on the opportunity to get great deals to help make room for the new season of goods and fashion.
GALERIES LAFAYETTE: 40, Boulevard Haussmann, 75009
Even visiting their website will give you a sense of the charm of French department stores. Galeries Lafayette is always known for its exceptional holiday window displays and 7-story Christmas tree that stands in the central atrium of the store. You may have to ask around (or just follow the fanny-packs) and make your way to the roof view of the city.
PRINTEMPS: 64, boulevard Haussmann, 75009
Part of appeal of French department stores is that there are “mini” stores within the store. Favorite shops like Mango and Zara have their own representation in the larger store (don’t worry, there’s not lack of those popular, stylish chains around town).
BHV: 52, Rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris
Perhaps the least glamorous of the grands magasins, this has long been a favorite of mine for their fantastic selection of office, craft and art supplies on the second floor (sometimes they give tutorials). The basement “hardware store” level also has it’s own appeal, as it’s a great place to pick up your favorite French signs or those blue house numbers that you see everywhere around the city.
HOTEL DROUOT – Even if you don’t have tens of thousands of Euros to spend, it doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy witnessing this auction house in action en francais. Scope out times and auctions in advance to make sure it fits your fancy.
FAIRE DES COURSES
[SHOPPING]
VERY FRENCH
ASTIER DE VILLATTE: 173, Rue St Honoré 75001 and 63, Boulevard Masséna 75013
Magnificent little boutique known for their ceramics and great for inspiration (seriously – just look at the website!). The company regularly invites artists and designers to create special edition pieces.
FRENCH TOUCHE: 1 rue Jacquemont 75017
Charmingly curated collection of independent goods for the designer in you. The perfect place to go for looking for a great gift with a dash of handmade French flair.
COLETTE: 213, rue Saint Honoré 75001
From clothing to books, make-up, products and more, Colette is the premier shop for design when you think of design in Paris. Always looking to push the next best thing. It’s so hip there’s even a water bar down stairs.
ATELIER BEAU TRAVAIL: 67 rue de la Mare 75020
Belleville studio/shop composed of 4 designers: Delphine Dunoyer (Aconit Napel), Céline Saby (Céline Saby), Else Puyo (Olivelse) and Séverine Balanqueux (Titlee). Every Saturday afternoon they open their doors to the public to showcase their creations. Every few months an exposition of a different theme takes place featuring the work of other designers as well.
PA DESIGN: 2 bis, rue Fléchier 75009
The name Pa Design comes from being against the idea that design is only a style – this object is design, this place is design. The boutique/showroom is open to the public to act as a laboratory of ideas to get reactions from the public (and open to artist who want to share their conceptions). Products from the likes of Tse-Tse and numerous other (and many young) designers.
LUKA LUNA: 77 rue de la verrerie, 75004 Paris
Boutique with a beautiful selection of primarily French items – small series made by hand, accessories for the home, jewelry, paper goods – all harmonious and perfectly presented.
LE PETIT ATELIER DE PARIS: 31, Rue Montmorency 75003
A charming shop tucked in the Marais showcasing beautiful, neutral handmade ceramics that are the perfect touch for any home.
PETIT PAN: 39, Rue François Miron 75004 Paris
Adorable, dreamy and handmade. Colorful chinese fabrics are used to make kid wares, clothes, accessories, kites, etc. They also offer ateliers/workshops for fabric printing and kites.
BONTON & BONTON BAZAR: 122 rue du Bac 75007 Paris <
Of all the shops in Paris devoted to the universe of children, this is one of the best. Perfect if you’re looking to decorate a children’s room. It’s location on rue du Bac is also appealing, as an adorable street with lots of great shops.
MARIE-HÉLÈNE DE TAILLAC: 8 rue de Tournon 75006
Wonderful jewelry showcased by lovely window displays.
DEHILLERIN: 18 rue Coquilliere 75001
Everything for the kitchen for the professional and foodie alike.
LES TOURISTES: 17 rue des Blancs Manteaux 75004
Collection of softgoods created with beautiful patterned textiles.
LES FLEURS PETITES: 3 passage de la bonne graine, 75011
A feminine universe full of unique handmade accessories. The boutique has great reputation on the internet (complete with online shop), but be sure to check the address before going in person, as it’s expanding and changing location.
FLAIR FROM ABROAD
EKOBO HOME:4, rue Hérold 75001 Paris
Beautiful, sustainable, contemporary home deco products made from bamboo. Products are designed in France and hand-crafted in Vietnam, cutting out the middleman, and with attention to quality and detail.
ANTOINE ET LILI: 95 Quai de Valmy 75010 & multiple locations around the city
Colorful storefronts along Canal St. Martin specializing in homewares, adult and children’s clothing. While most French stick to basic black, Antoine et Lili is not afraid of color. Lots of great kitsch goods from Asia perfect for the home. Skip stones along the canal like Amelie to celebrate your new purchases.
MUSKHANE: 3, Rue Pastourelle 75003 Paris
Showroom + boutique. Handmade wool and cashmere wares from Nepal. Gorgeous rubbed wool objects (rugs, pillows, accessories) in lovely colors + cashmere winter items, sweaters, gloves, pillows.
LE SENTOU: 26, boulevard Raspail 75007
Fantastic resource for modern home accessories from tableware to chairs or lighting.
HOME AUTOUR DU MONDE: 8 rue des francs bourgeois
Boutique for the home with a great selection of young designers. This shop was the first to pick up Anne Hubert’s La Cerise sur Le Gateau line of products.
VETEMENTS [CLOTHES]
LE BOUCLARD: 15 rue charlot, 75003
This shop doesn’t have a window and is guarded by a big sharpei, so it is necessary to enter to discover a super selection of shoes and sportswear.
KARINE ARABIAN: 4 rue Papillon
For the shoe addict.
Kiliwatch: 64, rue Tiquetonne 75002
Great location for quality vintage clothes (prices are a bit high, but the clothes are in good condition too). New fashions as well in stock.
LA LIBRARIE [BOOKSTORE]
ARTAZART: 83, Quai Valmy, 75010 Paris
This kind of bookstore where a designer can get lost for hours and spend an entire paycheck and still want to come back for more. The great variety of titles are in English and in French. There’s even a gallery in the front of the store that looks out to Canal St. Martin where Amelie skipped stones.
MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS
With tons of titles, the shop feels more like a library for design rather than a bookstore. Primarily books, but also good for gift design too.
PALAIS DE TOKYO
Books and magazines with a contemporary spin inside the museum.
LE MONTE-EN-L’AIR
Bookstore with lots of GREAT illustrated books/editions (a favorite of Marieke)
I LOVE MY BLENDER: 36 rue du temple, 75003
How can you not love a shop with that name? It’s a favorite bookstore of Stephane Froger of Le Petit Atelier de Paris
Shakespeare & Co.: 37 rue de la Bucherie 75005
English language bookstore not far from Notre Dame, covered floor to ceiling in used books. Look closely and you may see some hidden beds where the likes of Geoffrey Rush and other traveling students have slept (they also are the ones working the store).
PATISSERIES, BOULANGERIES, DU CHOCOLAT, UNE TASSE DE THE & UN VERRE DU VIN [PASTRIES, BREAD, CHOCOLATE, A CUP OF TEA AND A GLASS OF WINE]
I’m not even sure that a list of all the patisseries and boulangeries in Paris exists – there are so many! You really can’t go wrong with any of them, but part of the joy is trying them all a testing out something new each time (pain au chocolat, tarte aux pommes, croissant amandes, palmier, . . . ). Definitely try to go for the local ones for superior quality (even the chains hardly look like chains, but you’ll know because you’ll see the same name popping up around town).
LADUREE
Enter Marie Antoinette’s dream world full of a rainbow of colorful macaroons. If you can’t decide which one to try, you may as well try them all (they’re small after all) and wash them down with a French herbal tea. The macaroons also make for a beautiful (and delicious) souvenir to bring back home. The tea room has several locations around the city, and each one is a bit unique.
LES EDITEURS: 4, Carrefour d’Odeon 75006
Traditional café that pays homage to literary greats. In typical French fashion chairs and tables face out for prime people watching around Odeon. It’s the perfect place for vin chaud [mulled wine] in winter or a kir [a traditional aperatif from Dijon] in summer. As for fall, they’ll pull out heat lamps when it starts to get cool to keep outdoor seating.
LA MOSQUEE: 39, rue Saint-Hilaire 75005
Travel to the orient for the afternoon with a visit to the “salon du the” [tea house] at the Mosque in Paris. In spring and summer enjoy the open courtyard (in winter sit on beautiful cushions around tin tables inside) sipping tea out of beautiful glasses and snacking on north African treats.
ANGELINA’S: 226, rue de Rivoli 75001
One can only imagine that the kitchen of this place looks like a scene out of Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory, as everyone is coming here for the same thing – hot chocolate with fresh whipped cream. It’s definitely worth the wait to experience it at least once in your life.
JOSEPHINE VANNIER CHOCOLAT ARTISANAL: 4 rue Pas de la Mule 75003 (near Place des Voges)
Chocolate like you’ve never seen before, these works of art (from chocolate painter’s palettes to African masks) look too good to eat.
A LA MERE DE FAMILLE: 35, rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009
Traditional sweet shop that is a feast for the eyes. Treat yourself to one of the many French sweets, and try the ice cream in summer.
TAVERNE HENRI VI: 13, place du Pont Neuf 75001 (ile de la cite)
Wine bar on Pont Neuf run by a Frenchman who wears Tabasco sauce neckties and is very friendly to Americans. Located on Ile de la Cite, it’s central location makes it great for a late afternoon pit-stop. (If it’s summer time you’re in walking distance from the famous Berthillon ice cream).
AU RENDEZ-VOUS DES AMIS: 23, Rue Gabrielle, 75018
Always people, but never packed bar for the friendly, artist type in the heart of Montmartre – away from the tourists.
MANGER [EAT]
The saying goes, “Americans eat to live, and the French live to eat.” Nothing could be more true. First off a trip to the market is a complete must. Not much gives you a better idea of culture than they way people care for their food. My favorite was always the Sunday market along Blvd Richard Lenoir (near Bastille), where I’d regularly purchase a fresh roasted chicken and potatoes seasoned in the juices (c’est si bon!). No matter where you’re staying in the city, you can check out this list to find out which market is closest to you. Nothing beats a lunch of an apple, brie and a baguette (and maybe a cheap bottle of wine from the grocery store) as you sit along the Seine or in one of the endless parks or gardens around the city. If you’re looking to go out, but on a tight budget (just be glad the dollar is stronger than it was a few months ago!), keep your eyes open for “Paris Pas Cher” [cheap Paris] signs around the city. You can find some really wonderful places this way, and the sign means it’s not only cheap, but it’s good too. Many times too you will find a “menu fixed” which is a multi-course meal for a set price, which is typically a good deal. There are endless places to eat around the city, but here are some of our favorites (with extra recommendations from some great Parisian designers).
BOUILLON CHARTIER: 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009
A favorite among locals and tourists alike. They don’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait to experience this famous (and very affordable) restaurant that has been around since 1896 (it even makes a cameo in A Very Long Engagement in its days as a dance hall). Don’t be surprised if you have to share a table with another couple, it’s part of the experience, along with the waiters who write down your order on the tablecloth.
CAFE DES DEUX MOULINS: 15 rue Lepic 75018
Despite the tabac being removed to make more room for tourists, this cafe looks nearly identical to how it did when Amelie worked in it (complete with “toilettes” sign from that oh so memorable bathroom scene). The food is typical of any French brasserie, and believe it or not the prices are not inflated here to compensate for the new found fame (and the location is close, yet far away enough from Montmartre to avoid the main stream of crowds and tourists). The epicerie [vegetable stand] from the film can be found nearby at 56 Rue des Trois Freres, and of course the pathway up to Montmartre was an important scene in the movie too.
QUAI-QUAI: 4 quai des Orfèvres 75001 : 01 45 33 69 75
A favorite restaurant of Lily for great ambiance and simple, yet delicious food.
CHEZ OMAR: 47, rue de Bretagne 75003 : 01 42 72 36 26
A restaurant in the Marais with a fabulous reputation, and where to go for couscous.
404: 69, rue des Gravilliers, 75003 : 01.42.74.57.81 (need reservation)
Excellent north African food in a decor that feels like a cosy and comfortable Moroccan paradise (and it helps that the staff is super friendly too).
CAFE DE L’INDUSTRIE: 16, rue St. Sabin 75011
Always happening café/restaurant that just feels French. It even served as the backdrop in a few of Liz Tuccillo’s webisodes on being single in France.
LE LOUVRE RIPAILLE: 1 rue Perrault 75001
A must stop after any trip to the Louvre, this restaurant was recently featured as a d*s before/after for Lily’s interior revamp of her boyfriend’s French bistro. Beautiful interior and great food – what more can you ask for?
CAFE CHARBON: 109 Rue Oberkampf 75011
Great place for a night out with friends on the now trendy rue Oberkampf. Jazz clubs are nearby if you’re looking for something post-dinner.
LES BANQUETTES: 3, rue de Prague 75012
Eclectic decor in a delightful open air cafe. Sebastian is adorable.
SUPER NATURE: 12 rue de Trevise 75009
A favorite amongst Anne Hubert and her friends for Sunday brunch or lunch. Excellent and affordable.
LE TAXI JAUNE: 13 rue Chapon 75003
On a quiet street in the Marais, chef Otis pays great attention to everything you will eat.
BOB’S JUICE BAR: 15, rue Lucine-Sampaix 75010
If you’re looking for organic, this is where it’s at.
LE BAR A SOUPES: 33 rue de Charonne
If you’ve never tried French soup, you’re seriously missing out. Soup is trendy right now, and you can have your pick here.
LE CHATEAUBRIAND: 129 avenue Parmetier 75011
Famous place with a famous chef. Can’t go wrong.
KRUNG THEP: 93 rue Julien Lacroix
Best Thai in Paris
PHO DONG-HUONG: 14 rue Louis Bonnet 75011
Famous stop for Vietnamese food. Also a great deal!
LO SUSHI: multiple locations
Sushi goes around on a conveyor belt (price is determined by the color of the plate) while you write and draw messages on your touch screen with a chopstick to send to people in the restaurant.
NIGHT OUT
Back in my day as a student in Paris, Buddha Bar and Barrio Latino were the it places to be (they even sold their own soundtracks so you could take a bit of the experience home with you). And I think I’ll always be a fan of Favela Chic for it’s unsuspecting location, and delicious Brazilian dinner that later turns into dance party with mojitos and caipirinhas and dancing on tables if you stay late enough. But luckily Lily filled me in on the two hot places of the moment: Mama Shelter a new hotel with beautiful design and a great bar, and Cha Cha Club - a new fashionable restaurant bar with fantastic interiors (it may be a bit expensive, but everyone is talking about it). Overall, the 3rd and 10th arrondisements [districts] are the places to be these days.
PARIS CULTURE
MARCHE AUX PUCES – Flea markets happen all over the city, it just depends what you’re looking for as to where to go. Lily recommends St Ouen is good for clothing, antiques and 20th century design. Puces de Vanves is great for antiques. There is also a new, trendy market for design and great for haggling (I totally want all the chairs linked on their website!). See food section below for guide to food markets (a definite must!)
NUIT BLANCHE – Translates to “white night” where very year during the first Saturday in October the city stays awake all night as art/lighting installations pop up all around the city and bars stay open all night.
SALONS – All year Paris is host to events of all kinds. Salons (expos of sorts) happen for almost any subject possible from cheese to chocolate. Anyone can go, as long as you pay the entry. My personal favorite was the Salon de la Photographie which happens every November on the grounds of the Louvre.
PARIS PLAGE – A program started by the mayor a few years ago remains a huge hit. Every summer loads of sand are trucked in along the Seine to create a faux beach for city dwellers to indulge in for the summer. Some streets remain closed to promote outdoor activity.
JARDINS DE PARIS – Over 400 parks and gardens pop up all over Paris. The green spaces were created as calming places for city residents to escape city life. Each is unique and has it’s own personality and style ranging from those modeled off of the gardens of Louis XIV to completely modern spaces. My personal favorites are Parc Monceau and Promenade Plantee (a garden created on top of an old viaduct, and underneath artists have studios and shops in the archways).
EIFFEL TOWER
The irony of riding to the top of le Tour Eiffel is that when you’re at the top is that your view includes everything except the iconic tower itself. Instead, skip the long lines (be ware of pickpockets and gypsies here), and opt for a picnic on the Champs de Mars – the grassy area in front of the tower. Not only can you enjoy the view, you can enjoy a great meal (and wine) at the same time. Stay into evening and watch the tower twinkle the first five minutes of each hour on the hour, which is truly magical. Or in the winter, ride up to the first story for ice skating (ice skating at night outside Hotel de Ville is also magical).
PERE LACHAISE (M-Pere Lachaise)
Nothing perplexed me more than when I was in high school saw a French movie and there was a couple who went on a date on a cemetery. I thought it was the weirdest thing ever and laughed about it for years. . . until I visited Pere Lachaise, the most well known of the beautiful cemeteries speckled around Paris. Walking through the grounds is seriously like taking a walk in the park. You can pick up a map of the site on your way in and make your way to noteworthy graves such as Oscar Wilde (covered with lipstick kisses) or Jim Morrison (for die hard followers).
CATACOMBS
Sounds creepy, but really fascinating collection of patterns of bones and more bones in an underground cemetery that was created when the city cemeteries could not support the number of dead bodies.
BATEAUX MOUCHES
Totally a touristy thing to do, but still it’s a great way to see the city. The boat tour at night is particularly beautiful.
BIKE TOURS
Thousands of bikes are available around the city for minimal fees these days, thanks to the introduction of the new Velib bike-share program throughout the city. However, if you’re looking for a guide to take you around or something fun, but with a bit more structure, check out Fat Tire Bike Tours. They also offer segway tours – a little geeky? yes! touristy? yes! awesome riding around Place de la Concorde at night on a segway? yes!!!
STUDIO HARMONIC: 5 passage Thaillandiers 75011
A professional dance studio located near Bastille, this place made my day every time I went to my tous-niveau (all levels) hip-hop class. Enter and be prepared to be intimidated by the advanced level ballet and modern classes happening in the main studio, but go and test out your skills in a new form of dance in a beginning level class (en francais) and have a true experience! If you ever mess up on a move, just pretend it was because of the language barrier, not because you can’t dance ;)
PARIS PRACTIQUE:
GETTING AROUND
A PIED [walk] Paris is meant to be explored by foot. In fact you could spend a day doing absolutely nothing except getting lost turning from street to street. As for actually getting lost, nearly every Parisian carries a map on them. Rather than lugging around a giant guide book and looking like a tourist, pick up your very own “Plan de Paris” at most newstands or bookshops. The mini book is divided into maps of each of the 20 different arrondisements (districts) and every street is listed in the back and references various maps. Museums and cultural institutions are listed as well.
PAR METRO [by metro] There are 17 metro lines, 4 commuter rails and a new line circling the city, that connect Paris. When trying to get anywhere, keep in mind that it’s about one minute between each station, and count on 5 minutes anytime you have to make a change. You should be able to get anywhere you need to be with only one change, and it takes about 45 minutes to take the 1 line straight across Paris (Bois de Bologne to Bois de Vicennes). Use color, number and end destination clues to figure out where you want to go. Before you know it, you’ll be a pro and will know where to stand on the platform to make your connections. If you’re going to be in Paris for over a week, look into getting a “carte d’orange” for the semaine [week]- this may involve having to take your picture in the photobooth, but consider it a keepsake and it will save you time and money down the line. Otherwise, purchasing a carnet of 10 tickets is cheaper than buying tickets individually.
PAR AUTOBUS [by bus] Works on the same ticketing system as the metro. Routes may take a little more figuring out than the straightforward metro lines, but being above ground is a great way to see the city. As with the metro, many bus stops have digital displays noting how long until the next bus.
PAR VELO [by bike] Velib is a citywide program with thousands of bicycles for the public around the city for a minimal fee. (At one point American credit cards were an issue because they do not use the “smart chip” cards that Europeans use).
Written and compiled by Anne S. Ditmeyer with special thanks to Lily, Marieke, Boo Louis, Nathalie Lete, Anne Hubert, Stephane Froger & Antoine + Manuel!