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Design Sponge
February 3rd, 2009
paris design guide


we’ve been dying to put together a paris guide for so long, and now that our paris roundup has come to a close we thought it would be the perfect time. since it’s been awhile since i lived in my beloved city, i called on the help of the designers from the roundup, to add a fresh parisian touch to my favorite places to create a great guide for the design lover (and a few other ideas too to help you channel your inner amelie). we hope this helps on your next trip to the city of lights. and by all means, don’t be afraid to veer off course or get lost (that’s how you find the best secrets of the city) – we just ask the you share any of your discoveries with us in the comments. bon voyage! -anne

CLICK HERE for the full guide, or click “read more” below.

[paris rooftops by david bacher]

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LES MUSEES [MUSEUMS]:

Paris has no lack of museums to pick from, but here are a few of our favorites. It’s always a good idea to see what shows are happening (posters in the metro are a great way to get a sense what you may want to see), as you may not be interested in a particular museum, but your favorite artist happens to be there. Picking up a copy of ParisVoice (English speaking magazine aimed at expats), TimeOut: Paris (both are available at WHSmith, an English language bookstore on Rue de Rivoli across from the Tuillerie gardens) or Pariscope (for sale for less than 1 Euro at newstands . . . also good for theatre and movie times) will definitely have the most current information. Also, be sure to check opening hours before you head out (many museums are closed either Monday or Tuesday). Better yet, check for the days that the museum is open late. This not only allows you to take advantage of daylight hours when shops are open, but it means shorter lines, fewer crowds and discounted ticket prices.

LOUVRE

I dare you to go to Paris and skip the Louvre. Despite being the most well known of the bunch, it can be overwhelming (even after a semester long course I was not able to see it all!). If you do go, try Wednesday or Friday evenings for discounted prices and lighter crowds. And if the Mona Lisa is on your “must-do” list, make sure you take the time to people watch, as watching peoples faces and reactions can be equally as satisfying as seeing the real deal.

MUSEE D’ORSAY

Premier museum for French Impressionist art, the museum is worth visiting just to see the architecture of this former gare [train station]. Visit the cafe upstairs for a beautiful view out of the clock/window towards Montmarte. Thursdays are the night the museum is open late.

MUSEE RODIN

While on the smaller side, this is the kind of place where you’d want to stay all day and hang out in the gardens surrounding the main museum. Filled with sculptures by Rodin, this is a delightful place to spend the afternoon pondering “The Thinker.”

MUSEE GUIMET

If you’ve never been to Asia, this is a great place to get a thorough overview of the culture. The museum layout and lack of tourists make it a peaceful visit.

PALAIS DE TOKYO

Typically not on the top of visitor’s to-do lists, this museum of contemporary French art should be. The changing exhibits will always give you something to think about, and even if you’re not a fan of the current show, you can process it over a beer at the bar or restaurant housed in the museum. Possibly the coolest thing about this museum is that it’s regular hours are open to midnight, making a visit a great evening activity (especially teamed with dinner in the buzzing restaurant). There is also a great bookstore inside with tons of design titles.

CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU

Commonly referred to as the “eye sore” this modern museum was very controversial when it first opened, as it definitely stands out against the more traditional rooftops of Paris. Part of the experience is wandering the fountains around the building, taking in the street performers out front, and riding the clear escalators up to the top floor for amazing views of the city (the cafe may be pricey, but at least visit to check out their view and latest decor). The public library and film series are also worth checking out if you have the time. Museum is open until 11pm on Thursdays.

MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS

Another place in Paris where the bookstore shines as strong as the museum. Located just next to the Louvre along Rue du Rivoli, this museum may get lost to the typical tourist, but not to the designer. Anotine + Manual, graphiste et designer is just one example of great design on display.

MUSEE EUROPEENNE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE

A wonderful resource for photography in the city. The ever-changing shows that keep one coming back, and the extensive library, you can’t help but leave this place inspired and ready to break out your camera with a fresh eye. The center’s quaint location tucked in the Marais makes for an easy visit followed by a fresh pastry around the corner.

JEU DE PAUME

Inside the grounds of the Tuilleries gardens, this museum can be a quick stop off if the current exhibition interests you (it’s usually something good!). If you’re visiting in winter, head over to Angelina’s on Rue de Rivoli for hot chocolate to die for, or in summer, grab one of the chairs surrounding one of the fountains in the garden and kick your feet back for awhile and people watch to your heart’s content. (Colette is also walkable from here).

GALERIES

Small galleries are located all around the city, so don’t be afraid to pop in if something in the window piques your interest. Vernisage is the term used to describe an opening, so check for posters in windows, and maybe you can even snag a free glass of wine with your dose of art. Recently illustrator Steven Harrington had a show at the Lazy Dog near Bastille, so be sure to check out what’s happening there, as their shows tend to have strong graphic elements. Tools Galerie at 119, rue Vieille-du-Temple (75003) is another one with great contemporary design, while Galerie Baumet-Sultana at 20, rue Saint-Claude (75003) has a reputation for being the talk of the town. If your visiting in fall, keep your eye out for “open studios tours” where galleries all around the city open their doors in the evening and you can hop from one to another.

SPACE INVADERS – Guerrilla art project that pops up around the city (and the world) with tiled “space invaders” based on the 70s video game. It becomes a fun game to spot the little buggers around the city.

LES GRANDS MAGASINS [DEPARTMENT STORES]

Unlike the stigma many department stores have in the US, department stores in France are held in high regard. The architecture of many of them is incredible by itself, and window displays show off the latest fashions through exceptionally creative displays. The winter holidays are a real treat as the stores go all out (inside and out!). Several too are known for their amazing views of the city from the upper levels (La Samaritaine was always my personal favorite, but it was still closed at last report I heard). Also noteworthy are Les Soldes, the twice annual [January and July] mega sales that happen all around the city (at nearly all shops). Deep discounts are offered and the French and tourists alike jump on the opportunity to get great deals to help make room for the new season of goods and fashion.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE: 40, Boulevard Haussmann, 75009

Even visiting their website will give you a sense of the charm of French department stores. Galeries Lafayette is always known for its exceptional holiday window displays and 7-story Christmas tree that stands in the central atrium of the store. You may have to ask around (or just follow the fanny-packs) and make your way to the roof view of the city.

PRINTEMPS: 64, boulevard Haussmann, 75009

Part of appeal of French department stores is that there are “mini” stores within the store. Favorite shops like Mango and Zara have their own representation in the larger store (don’t worry, there’s not lack of those popular, stylish chains around town).

BHV: 52, Rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris

Perhaps the least glamorous of the grands magasins, this has long been a favorite of mine for their fantastic selection of office, craft and art supplies on the second floor (sometimes they give tutorials). The basement “hardware store” level also has it’s own appeal, as it’s a great place to pick up your favorite French signs or those blue house numbers that you see everywhere around the city.

HOTEL DROUOT – Even if you don’t have tens of thousands of Euros to spend, it doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy witnessing this auction house in action en francais. Scope out times and auctions in advance to make sure it fits your fancy.

FAIRE DES COURSES

[SHOPPING]

VERY FRENCH

ASTIER DE VILLATTE: 173, Rue St Honoré 75001 and 63, Boulevard Masséna 75013

Magnificent little boutique known for their ceramics and great for inspiration (seriously – just look at the website!). The company regularly invites artists and designers to create special edition pieces.

FRENCH TOUCHE: 1 rue Jacquemont 75017

Charmingly curated collection of independent goods for the designer in you. The perfect place to go for looking for a great gift with a dash of handmade French flair.

COLETTE: 213, rue Saint Honoré 75001

From clothing to books, make-up, products and more, Colette is the premier shop for design when you think of design in Paris. Always looking to push the next best thing. It’s so hip there’s even a water bar down stairs.

ATELIER BEAU TRAVAIL: 67 rue de la Mare 75020

Belleville studio/shop composed of 4 designers: Delphine Dunoyer (Aconit Napel), Céline Saby (Céline Saby), Else Puyo (Olivelse) and Séverine Balanqueux (Titlee). Every Saturday afternoon they open their doors to the public to showcase their creations. Every few months an exposition of a different theme takes place featuring the work of other designers as well.

PA DESIGN: 2 bis, rue Fléchier 75009

The name Pa Design comes from being against the idea that design is only a style – this object is design, this place is design. The boutique/showroom is open to the public to act as a laboratory of ideas to get reactions from the public (and open to artist who want to share their conceptions). Products from the likes of Tse-Tse and numerous other (and many young) designers.

LUKA LUNA: 77 rue de la verrerie, 75004 Paris

Boutique with a beautiful selection of primarily French items – small series made by hand, accessories for the home, jewelry, paper goods – all harmonious and perfectly presented.

LE PETIT ATELIER DE PARIS: 31, Rue Montmorency 75003

A charming shop tucked in the Marais showcasing beautiful, neutral handmade ceramics that are the perfect touch for any home.

PETIT PAN: 39, Rue François Miron 75004 Paris

Adorable, dreamy and handmade. Colorful chinese fabrics are used to make kid wares, clothes, accessories, kites, etc. They also offer ateliers/workshops for fabric printing and kites.

BONTON & BONTON BAZAR: 122 rue du Bac 75007 Paris <

Of all the shops in Paris devoted to the universe of children, this is one of the best. Perfect if you’re looking to decorate a children’s room. It’s location on rue du Bac is also appealing, as an adorable street with lots of great shops.

MARIE-HÉLÈNE DE TAILLAC: 8 rue de Tournon 75006

Wonderful jewelry showcased by lovely window displays.

DEHILLERIN: 18 rue Coquilliere 75001

Everything for the kitchen for the professional and foodie alike.

LES TOURISTES: 17 rue des Blancs Manteaux 75004

Collection of softgoods created with beautiful patterned textiles.

LES FLEURS PETITES: 3 passage de la bonne graine, 75011

A feminine universe full of unique handmade accessories. The boutique has great reputation on the internet (complete with online shop), but be sure to check the address before going in person, as it’s expanding and changing location.

FLAIR FROM ABROAD

EKOBO HOME:4, rue Hérold 75001 Paris

Beautiful, sustainable, contemporary home deco products made from bamboo. Products are designed in France and hand-crafted in Vietnam, cutting out the middleman, and with attention to quality and detail.

ANTOINE ET LILI: 95 Quai de Valmy 75010 & multiple locations around the city

Colorful storefronts along Canal St. Martin specializing in homewares, adult and children’s clothing. While most French stick to basic black, Antoine et Lili is not afraid of color. Lots of great kitsch goods from Asia perfect for the home. Skip stones along the canal like Amelie to celebrate your new purchases.

MUSKHANE: 3, Rue Pastourelle 75003 Paris

Showroom + boutique. Handmade wool and cashmere wares from Nepal. Gorgeous rubbed wool objects (rugs, pillows, accessories) in lovely colors + cashmere winter items, sweaters, gloves, pillows.

LE SENTOU: 26, boulevard Raspail 75007

Fantastic resource for modern home accessories from tableware to chairs or lighting.

HOME AUTOUR DU MONDE: 8 rue des francs bourgeois

Boutique for the home with a great selection of young designers. This shop was the first to pick up Anne Hubert’s La Cerise sur Le Gateau line of products.

VETEMENTS [CLOTHES]

LE BOUCLARD: 15 rue charlot, 75003

This shop doesn’t have a window and is guarded by a big sharpei, so it is necessary to enter to discover a super selection of shoes and sportswear.

KARINE ARABIAN: 4 rue Papillon

For the shoe addict.

Kiliwatch: 64, rue Tiquetonne 75002

Great location for quality vintage clothes (prices are a bit high, but the clothes are in good condition too). New fashions as well in stock.

LA LIBRARIE [BOOKSTORE]

ARTAZART: 83, Quai Valmy, 75010 Paris

This kind of bookstore where a designer can get lost for hours and spend an entire paycheck and still want to come back for more. The great variety of titles are in English and in French. There’s even a gallery in the front of the store that looks out to Canal St. Martin where Amelie skipped stones.

MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS

With tons of titles, the shop feels more like a library for design rather than a bookstore. Primarily books, but also good for gift design too.

PALAIS DE TOKYO

Books and magazines with a contemporary spin inside the museum.

LE MONTE-EN-L’AIR

Bookstore with lots of GREAT illustrated books/editions (a favorite of Marieke)

I LOVE MY BLENDER: 36 rue du temple, 75003

How can you not love a shop with that name? It’s a favorite bookstore of Stephane Froger of Le Petit Atelier de Paris

Shakespeare & Co.: 37 rue de la Bucherie 75005

English language bookstore not far from Notre Dame, covered floor to ceiling in used books. Look closely and you may see some hidden beds where the likes of Geoffrey Rush and other traveling students have slept (they also are the ones working the store).

PATISSERIES, BOULANGERIES, DU CHOCOLAT, UNE TASSE DE THE & UN VERRE DU VIN [PASTRIES, BREAD, CHOCOLATE, A CUP OF TEA AND A GLASS OF WINE]

I’m not even sure that a list of all the patisseries and boulangeries in Paris exists – there are so many! You really can’t go wrong with any of them, but part of the joy is trying them all a testing out something new each time (pain au chocolat, tarte aux pommes, croissant amandes, palmier, . . . ). Definitely try to go for the local ones for superior quality (even the chains hardly look like chains, but you’ll know because you’ll see the same name popping up around town).

LADUREE

Enter Marie Antoinette’s dream world full of a rainbow of colorful macaroons. If you can’t decide which one to try, you may as well try them all (they’re small after all) and wash them down with a French herbal tea. The macaroons also make for a beautiful (and delicious) souvenir to bring back home. The tea room has several locations around the city, and each one is a bit unique.

LES EDITEURS: 4, Carrefour d’Odeon 75006

Traditional café that pays homage to literary greats. In typical French fashion chairs and tables face out for prime people watching around Odeon. It’s the perfect place for vin chaud [mulled wine] in winter or a kir [a traditional aperatif from Dijon] in summer. As for fall, they’ll pull out heat lamps when it starts to get cool to keep outdoor seating.

LA MOSQUEE: 39, rue Saint-Hilaire 75005

Travel to the orient for the afternoon with a visit to the “salon du the” [tea house] at the Mosque in Paris. In spring and summer enjoy the open courtyard (in winter sit on beautiful cushions around tin tables inside) sipping tea out of beautiful glasses and snacking on north African treats.

ANGELINA’S: 226, rue de Rivoli 75001

One can only imagine that the kitchen of this place looks like a scene out of Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory, as everyone is coming here for the same thing – hot chocolate with fresh whipped cream. It’s definitely worth the wait to experience it at least once in your life.

JOSEPHINE VANNIER CHOCOLAT ARTISANAL: 4 rue Pas de la Mule 75003 (near Place des Voges)

Chocolate like you’ve never seen before, these works of art (from chocolate painter’s palettes to African masks) look too good to eat.

A LA MERE DE FAMILLE: 35, rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009

Traditional sweet shop that is a feast for the eyes. Treat yourself to one of the many French sweets, and try the ice cream in summer.

TAVERNE HENRI VI: 13, place du Pont Neuf 75001 (ile de la cite)

Wine bar on Pont Neuf run by a Frenchman who wears Tabasco sauce neckties and is very friendly to Americans. Located on Ile de la Cite, it’s central location makes it great for a late afternoon pit-stop. (If it’s summer time you’re in walking distance from the famous Berthillon ice cream).

AU RENDEZ-VOUS DES AMIS: 23, Rue Gabrielle, 75018

Always people, but never packed bar for the friendly, artist type in the heart of Montmartre – away from the tourists.

MANGER [EAT]

The saying goes, “Americans eat to live, and the French live to eat.” Nothing could be more true. First off a trip to the market is a complete must. Not much gives you a better idea of culture than they way people care for their food. My favorite was always the Sunday market along Blvd Richard Lenoir (near Bastille), where I’d regularly purchase a fresh roasted chicken and potatoes seasoned in the juices (c’est si bon!). No matter where you’re staying in the city, you can check out this list to find out which market is closest to you. Nothing beats a lunch of an apple, brie and a baguette (and maybe a cheap bottle of wine from the grocery store) as you sit along the Seine or in one of the endless parks or gardens around the city. If you’re looking to go out, but on a tight budget (just be glad the dollar is stronger than it was a few months ago!), keep your eyes open for “Paris Pas Cher” [cheap Paris] signs around the city. You can find some really wonderful places this way, and the sign means it’s not only cheap, but it’s good too. Many times too you will find a “menu fixed” which is a multi-course meal for a set price, which is typically a good deal. There are endless places to eat around the city, but here are some of our favorites (with extra recommendations from some great Parisian designers).

BOUILLON CHARTIER: 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009

A favorite among locals and tourists alike. They don’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait to experience this famous (and very affordable) restaurant that has been around since 1896 (it even makes a cameo in A Very Long Engagement in its days as a dance hall). Don’t be surprised if you have to share a table with another couple, it’s part of the experience, along with the waiters who write down your order on the tablecloth.

CAFE DES DEUX MOULINS: 15 rue Lepic 75018

Despite the tabac being removed to make more room for tourists, this cafe looks nearly identical to how it did when Amelie worked in it (complete with “toilettes” sign from that oh so memorable bathroom scene). The food is typical of any French brasserie, and believe it or not the prices are not inflated here to compensate for the new found fame (and the location is close, yet far away enough from Montmartre to avoid the main stream of crowds and tourists). The epicerie [vegetable stand] from the film can be found nearby at 56 Rue des Trois Freres, and of course the pathway up to Montmartre was an important scene in the movie too.

QUAI-QUAI: 4 quai des Orfèvres 75001 : 01 45 33 69 75

A favorite restaurant of Lily for great ambiance and simple, yet delicious food.

CHEZ OMAR: 47, rue de Bretagne 75003 : 01 42 72 36 26

A restaurant in the Marais with a fabulous reputation, and where to go for couscous.

404: 69, rue des Gravilliers, 75003 : 01.42.74.57.81 (need reservation)

Excellent north African food in a decor that feels like a cosy and comfortable Moroccan paradise (and it helps that the staff is super friendly too).

CAFE DE L’INDUSTRIE: 16, rue St. Sabin 75011

Always happening café/restaurant that just feels French. It even served as the backdrop in a few of Liz Tuccillo’s webisodes on being single in France.

LE LOUVRE RIPAILLE: 1 rue Perrault 75001

A must stop after any trip to the Louvre, this restaurant was recently featured as a d*s before/after for Lily’s interior revamp of her boyfriend’s French bistro. Beautiful interior and great food – what more can you ask for?

CAFE CHARBON: 109 Rue Oberkampf 75011

Great place for a night out with friends on the now trendy rue Oberkampf. Jazz clubs are nearby if you’re looking for something post-dinner.

LES BANQUETTES: 3, rue de Prague 75012

Eclectic decor in a delightful open air cafe. Sebastian is adorable.

SUPER NATURE: 12 rue de Trevise 75009

A favorite amongst Anne Hubert and her friends for Sunday brunch or lunch. Excellent and affordable.

LE TAXI JAUNE: 13 rue Chapon 75003
On a quiet street in the Marais, chef Otis pays great attention to everything you will eat.

BOB’S JUICE BAR: 15, rue Lucine-Sampaix 75010
If you’re looking for organic, this is where it’s at.

LE BAR A SOUPES: 33 rue de Charonne
If you’ve never tried French soup, you’re seriously missing out. Soup is trendy right now, and you can have your pick here.

LE CHATEAUBRIAND: 129 avenue Parmetier 75011
Famous place with a famous chef. Can’t go wrong.

KRUNG THEP: 93 rue Julien Lacroix
Best Thai in Paris

PHO DONG-HUONG: 14 rue Louis Bonnet 75011
Famous stop for Vietnamese food. Also a great deal!

LO SUSHI: multiple locations
Sushi goes around on a conveyor belt (price is determined by the color of the plate) while you write and draw messages on your touch screen with a chopstick to send to people in the restaurant.

NIGHT OUT

Back in my day as a student in Paris, Buddha Bar and Barrio Latino were the it places to be (they even sold their own soundtracks so you could take a bit of the experience home with you). And I think I’ll always be a fan of Favela Chic for it’s unsuspecting location, and delicious Brazilian dinner that later turns into dance party with mojitos and caipirinhas and dancing on tables if you stay late enough. But luckily Lily filled me in on the two hot places of the moment: Mama Shelter a new hotel with beautiful design and a great bar, and Cha Cha Club - a new fashionable restaurant bar with fantastic interiors (it may be a bit expensive, but everyone is talking about it). Overall, the 3rd and 10th arrondisements [districts] are the places to be these days.

PARIS CULTURE

MARCHE AUX PUCES – Flea markets happen all over the city, it just depends what you’re looking for as to where to go. Lily recommends St Ouen is good for clothing, antiques and 20th century design. Puces de Vanves is great for antiques. There is also a new, trendy market for design and great for haggling (I totally want all the chairs linked on their website!). See food section below for guide to food markets (a definite must!)

NUIT BLANCHE – Translates to “white night”  where very year during the first Saturday in October the city stays awake all night as art/lighting installations pop up all around the city and bars stay open all night.

SALONS – All year Paris is host to events of all kinds. Salons (expos of sorts) happen for almost any subject possible from cheese to chocolate. Anyone can go, as long as you pay the entry. My personal favorite was the Salon de la Photographie which happens every November on the grounds of the Louvre.

PARIS PLAGE – A program started by the mayor a few years ago remains a huge hit. Every summer loads of sand are trucked in along the Seine to create a faux beach for city dwellers to indulge in for the summer. Some streets remain closed to promote outdoor activity.

JARDINS DE PARIS – Over 400 parks and gardens pop up all over Paris. The green spaces were created as calming places for city residents to escape city life. Each is unique and has it’s own personality and style ranging from those modeled off of the gardens of Louis XIV to completely modern spaces. My personal favorites are Parc Monceau and Promenade Plantee (a garden created on top of an old viaduct, and underneath artists have studios and shops in the archways).

EIFFEL TOWER

The irony of riding to the top of le Tour Eiffel is that when you’re at the top is that your view includes everything except the iconic tower itself. Instead, skip the long lines (be ware of pickpockets and gypsies here), and opt for a picnic on the Champs de Mars – the grassy area in front of the tower. Not only can you enjoy the view, you can enjoy a great meal (and wine) at the same time. Stay into evening and watch the tower twinkle the first five minutes of each hour on the hour, which is truly magical. Or in the winter, ride up to the first story for ice skating (ice skating at night outside Hotel de Ville is also magical).

PERE LACHAISE (M-Pere Lachaise)

Nothing perplexed me more than when I was in high school saw a French movie and there was a couple who went on a date on a cemetery. I thought it was the weirdest thing ever and laughed about it for years. . . until I visited Pere Lachaise, the most well known of the beautiful cemeteries speckled around Paris. Walking through the grounds is seriously like taking a walk in the park. You can pick up a map of the site on your way in and make your way to noteworthy graves such as Oscar Wilde (covered with lipstick kisses) or Jim Morrison (for die hard followers).

CATACOMBS

Sounds creepy, but really fascinating collection of patterns of bones and more bones in an underground cemetery that was created when the city cemeteries could not support the number of dead bodies.

BATEAUX MOUCHES

Totally a touristy thing to do, but still it’s a great way to see the city. The boat tour at night is particularly beautiful.

BIKE TOURS

Thousands of bikes are available around the city for minimal fees these days, thanks to the introduction of the new Velib bike-share program throughout the city. However, if you’re looking for a guide to take you around or something fun, but with a bit more structure, check out Fat Tire Bike Tours. They also offer segway tours – a little geeky? yes! touristy? yes! awesome riding around Place de la Concorde at night on a segway? yes!!!

STUDIO HARMONIC: 5 passage Thaillandiers 75011

A professional dance studio located near Bastille, this place made my day every time I went to my tous-niveau (all levels) hip-hop class. Enter and be prepared to be intimidated by the advanced level ballet and modern classes happening in the main studio, but go and test out your skills in a new form of dance in a beginning level class (en francais) and have a true experience! If you ever mess up on a move, just pretend it was because of the language barrier, not because you can’t dance ;)

PARIS PRACTIQUE:

GETTING AROUND
A PIED [walk] Paris is meant to be explored by foot. In fact you could spend a day doing absolutely nothing except getting lost turning from street to street. As for actually getting lost, nearly every Parisian carries a map on them. Rather than lugging around a giant guide book and looking like a tourist, pick up your very own “Plan de Paris” at most newstands or bookshops. The mini book is divided into maps of each of the 20 different arrondisements (districts) and every street is listed in the back and references various maps. Museums and cultural institutions are listed as well.

PAR METRO [by metro] There are 17 metro lines, 4 commuter rails and a new line circling the city, that connect Paris. When trying to get anywhere, keep in mind that it’s about one minute between each station, and count on 5 minutes anytime you have to make a change. You should be able to get anywhere you need to be with only one change, and it takes about 45 minutes to take the 1 line straight across Paris (Bois de Bologne to Bois de Vicennes). Use color, number and end destination clues to figure out where you want to go. Before you know it, you’ll be a pro and will know where to stand on the platform to make your connections. If you’re going to be in Paris for over a week, look into getting a “carte d’orange” for the semaine [week]- this may involve having to take your picture in the photobooth, but consider it a keepsake and it will save you time and money down the line. Otherwise, purchasing a carnet of 10 tickets is cheaper than buying tickets individually.

PAR AUTOBUS [by bus] Works on the same ticketing system as the metro. Routes may take a little more figuring out than the straightforward metro lines, but being above ground is a great way to see the city. As with the metro, many bus stops have digital displays noting how long until the next bus.

PAR VELO [by bike] Velib is a citywide program with thousands of bicycles for the public around the city for a minimal fee. (At one point American credit cards were an issue because they do not use the “smart chip” cards that Europeans use).

Written and compiled by Anne S. Ditmeyer with special thanks to Lily, Marieke, Boo Louis, Nathalie Lete, Anne Hubert, Stephane Froger & Antoine + Manuel!

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65 comments
curlyred said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 2:31 pm

I also recommend Chez Marie in Montmartre. It was the best mousse au chocolat I’ve ever had :)

Sarah said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 3:03 pm

wow, that’s extensive research. It looks awesome!

rifferaff said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 3:31 pm

we must have been abroad around the same time because favela chic was the hot spot when i did a semester there as well.

the best falafel i’ve ever had was in paris at either l’as du falafel or a place just down the street from them that’s not as famous but just as tasty.

also i’d highly recommend shwarma or crepes from pretty much any street side vendor. i practically lived off of shwarma with frites!

jennifer said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 3:36 pm

this is fantastic! my husband planned a valentine’s trip to paris…my first time! romance-schmomance, i’m excited for the art and design :)

redcirce said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 5:03 pm

you forgot Pierre Hermé (www.pierreherme.com)!

Emily said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 5:39 pm

This is great! I would also recommend the Orangerie Museum, Cafe des Musees on the r. de Turenne for lunch, and Deyrolles just for browsing! I bought the Moleskine Paris City Guide for my second trip and found it really useful (and it doesn’t look like an obnoxious travel guide when you pull it out).

February 3rd, 2009 - 6:24 pm

rifferaff – i can’t believe i managed to write a paris guide and leave out crepes! that’s really the first thing everyone must do when they arrive. i’ll have to update the guide…because it’s imperative that you make them make you a fresh crepe and not one off the stack! i could totally go for a nutella-banane or citron et sucre right about NOW!

anne

Vanessa said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 6:37 pm

Anne! I am so impressed! I miss our semester abroad, and I’m so glad you put Studio Harmonic down. I took the most memorable ballet classes there. I would recommend my favorite Italian restaurant in the lovely Passy neighborhood, La Matta
23 rue de l’Annonciation, 75016

Rachel H. said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 6:48 pm

Oooh, you guys are reading my mind. You posted a city guide for Omaha the week before we went to Omaha, and you just posted this, and we leave for Paris on the 8th of March!!! Thank you- we visited about 6 things on your Omaha list, and I am sure we will depend on this list as well!

Emily said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 7:08 pm

Lovely! My Karine Arabian boots make me divinely happy. And if you visit her boutique, stop for lunch at Chez Mme Gen, run by three brothers who will brew you the best cup of Moroccan Mint tea, assuming they didn’t have a run on the Mojitos the night before. Also, APC on the rue de Fleurus, and the comptoir des cotonniers on the rue Bonaparte are a must (along with the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg, and the cafe de la mairie on the Place St Sulpice for the greatest people watching!) Oh. Now I’m homesick.

Jane said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 7:13 pm

What an amazing resource, thank you. Before my last trip to Paris I spent hours, days, weeks plotting out all the shops I wanted to see only to find the best thing to do is just walk – around every corner is something sublime and inspirational. I cannot wait to return.

Jamila said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 8:36 pm

Thank you for this design guide. I’m going to Paris in March for the 1st time!

February 3rd, 2009 - 9:34 pm

went to Paris for our honeymoon. Musee D’Orsay was spectacular…Manet’s Olimpia is breathtaking. Centre Pompidou is my favorite modern art museum in the world.

Meghan said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 10:56 pm

THANK YOU!! I will be spending six weeks or so in Paris this summer and was wondering where this was! I can’t wait to explore.

mk said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 11:43 pm

Here are a few of my favorite places that I would visit weekly when I lived in Paris:

1) Jardin du Luxembourg – On warm weekends, I would grab a chair and have a picnic lunch, take in some sunshine and relax. Sundays are great to see children in their Sunday Best playing after church.

2) Jardin du Palais Royal – a special place for me was Ibu Gallery. They always have wonderful sculptures, jewelry and unique exhibitions in a beautiful space. Ibu was the wife of Lionel Poilane of Poilane Bakery.

3) Behind the Palais Royal are two Passages (indoor passage ways filled with shops and restaurants): Vivienne and Colbert

4) Two shops that I like to visit: the Collection, 33, rue de Poitou, 75003 – owned by Allison Grant, an Englishwoman, promoting UK Designers to Paris and Dominique Picquier, 10, rue de Charlot, 75003. Dominique designs wonderful patterns on her fabrics and accessories. I love her totes and her coin purses make great gifts! Enjoy!

mk said:
February 3rd, 2009 - 11:51 pm

One more thing: Buy a Plan de Paris with Street Index, before you visit, if you can find one. It is a small book with a detailed street map of all the arrondissements, plus a metro and bus map and a street index which is very very helpful. My little book, given to me as a gift from a fellow Francophile, is paperclipped with business cards of restaurants and shops that I visited and admired.

Luka Luna is one of my favorite shops. I always forgot where they were located visually knew where they were…

Lily said:
February 4th, 2009 - 3:11 am

My pleasure… What a work ! So many things in Paris. Now I’m waiting you for discover much more…
Shopping it’s faire des courses :)

Elen said:
February 4th, 2009 - 4:12 am

Very good guide. Go to Luka Luna and Le petit Atelier de Paris. Adorable people & great selection.

I’d add this address:
Patisserie Pain de sucre in the Marais:
14, rue Rambuteau
75003 Paris
http://www.patisseriepaindesucre.com/
It was created five years ago by patissiers who used to work in 4 stars hotels. It’s so delicious! (closed on mondays & tuesdays)

and Fleux which appeared at the same time for the avant-garde design:
39, rue Ste-Croix-De-La-Bretonnerie
75004 Paris
http://www.fleux.com/

Loora said:
February 4th, 2009 - 4:21 am

I’m so thrilled that you put on a loooot of shopping adresses I didn’t know about ! I don’t live in paris anymore, but I’ll be sure to check them next time.

Just to be the annoying French girl who corrects everyone (which I’m not): it’s “galeries” and “faire des courses”… but we use “faire du shopping” !

I’d add the Musée de l’Orangerie and the Musée du Luxembourg (near the Sénat and the park). And the Bon Marché, rue de Sèvres, which is the first “grand magasin” ever. If you like architecture, the Chateau de Versailles is truly amazing; otherwise, the “Sainte Chapelle” (Holy Chapel) is very near Notre Dame de Paris, and exceptionnal too.

I also love the restaurant “La petite cour”, 8 rue Mabillon, 6e. The food is amazing, and not so very expensive. For celebrating a great Paris guide !

February 4th, 2009 - 4:26 am

It is not an exgeration to say that I love your blog/site. Not only is it beautiful, it is also useful;original;trully inspirational. Well done!

Margot said:
February 4th, 2009 - 5:48 am

I live there… So i can give you some good advices . I am design addict !
Go next to la Bastille There are lot design galleries. If you go to this Area ( bastille metro, line 1) be very curious, open the door, you will discover some amazing old architecture, old factory, artist studio, beautiful courtyard . In the museum Centre Pompidou, there is a nice shop; concept store oriented design, fashion product. But the museum offers all the time nice exhibitions and has nice permanent collection . And you have to go Colette also a concept store.

Many Many things to discover . I live there but there is always something new.

Simona said:
February 4th, 2009 - 6:15 am

Thanks a lot, I will be in Paris next week to celebrate my birthday and San Valentine’s day. It’s the first time for me and I can’t wait , this guide will be for sure usefull.
CIAO

Lucy said:
February 4th, 2009 - 8:12 am

Oh la la! I go to Paris once a month for work (from London). I’ve now got even more of an excuse to stay there a bit longer (despite the dismal £ exchange rate).

Kathleen said:
February 4th, 2009 - 9:23 am

Don’t forget Cafe Marly at the Louvre – great location, great food and the people watching is even better.

Anna said:
February 4th, 2009 - 9:27 am

Love this guide Anne! Makes me want to go to Paris with you next time!

cheers.

Taryn said:
February 4th, 2009 - 11:35 am

My inbox has been so hectic as of late but I always scroll through my design*sponge pages as it gives me that welcomed moment of *ahh*. This is my first comment because I am an aspiring Parisian and love that you have compiled this list! I went to Paris for my fourth time last June and honestly had the most magical time (again!). I just wanted to add one restaurant to your list as it was my favorite of the trip:

Chez Janou- in Le Marais tucked behind Place Des Vosges
01 42-72-28-41

It was a perfect meal in a perfect place.

Sara said:
February 4th, 2009 - 11:35 am

Thank you so much!! I am going to Paris in July and I have already printed this out to take with me. Any chance you have one for Munich or are going to do one?

February 4th, 2009 - 11:47 am

Here in Toronto, we also have a September event called Nuit Blanche, with the same concept as the one in Paris. Now I know where the idea came from. I didn’t think Toronto was edgy enough (unlike Paris) to think of such a fabulous event!

Great guide to the city. I’m visiting again in May, and will definitely hit some of the hotspots listed above. After all, we can’t rush Paris in one visit…we’re all meant to go back again and again and again…

corinne said:
February 4th, 2009 - 12:19 pm

going to Paris tomorrow night ! your reportage is just on time ! Thank you !

Comète said:
February 4th, 2009 - 12:25 pm

For Kids and parents : coffee, eat and shop !

http://www.lepoussettecafe.com/

6 rue pierre sémard
75009 Paris

enjoy ;)

February 4th, 2009 - 12:59 pm

When I lived in Paris, my favorite department store was Le Bon Marche. The grocery store there (la Grande Epicerie) is also a treat.

And a great spot to have tea is the salon at the Musee de la Vie Romantique.

February 4th, 2009 - 1:23 pm

I stayed at Mama Shelter last time I was in Paris – it was divine – a very design driven hotel and quite reasonable (for Paris).

You have omitted my favourite Parisian museum though (although I suppose everyone has a favourite) the Rodin museum – superb!

Katherine said:
February 4th, 2009 - 2:54 pm

Bon Marche (http://www.treeslbm.com/) is another great department store, the food hall is amazing and it has a La Drougerie concession where you can get gorgeous yarns.

I’d also recommend Junkudo for stocking up on Japanese craft books: https://www.junku.fr/upload/FR/info1.htm

Great guide – I love Bonton!

r said:
February 4th, 2009 - 4:13 pm

Will you do a Brussels design guide (or recruit someone to do it)? I’m going to Belgium in a couple of months, and would love to see the creative side of the city, as opposed to the political side.

sanderson said:
February 4th, 2009 - 5:28 pm

Great list! Wish I had this when I visited in December.

One of my favorite places was Le Caveau de la Huchette….the Jazz Caves. We went on a Tuesday night and the place was packed with Parisians swing dancing to live dance until early in the morning. Saw some great fashion as well.

Jordan said:
February 4th, 2009 - 6:11 pm

I just moved to Paris and I’ve already been to a few of these places. Thank you so much for all the new suggestions, I can’t wait to discover them!

Anabel said:
February 4th, 2009 - 8:11 pm

Merci!!! I am a new “parisienne”, so this is going to help me in my daily life!!!

mk said:
February 4th, 2009 - 8:21 pm

Hey Taryn, Chez Janou is one of my favorite, favorite restaurants and the mousse du chocolat is divine. When you order it, it comes in an enormous glass bowl, a spoon and one bowl. It is self-serve until you are done and then they take the bowl away and give it to the next person who ordered the chocolat! They have wonderful outdoor seating in the warmer months!

kim said:
February 5th, 2009 - 7:18 am

I’d like to add another vote for museum l’Orangerie, it’s worth visiting for Monet’s (huge!) waterlilies.

lilydoum said:
February 5th, 2009 - 1:15 pm

I confirm her choice, I am a Parisian and know most of those addresses. I even checked the ones I didn’t know and I can definitely tell you that those places offer a good overview of what the alternative and artistic Paris has to offer. Good job Anna!!

Robin said:
February 8th, 2009 - 6:09 am

Oh my god, I’m so glad there’s a Paris design guide!! I just arrived here for a semester abroad, and while I intend to discover things by myself, it’s nice to have some tips tossed my way…

mia said:
February 11th, 2009 - 2:07 pm

Oo la la! This has gotten me reminiscing about the days Ive lived in Paris! ahhhhhh memories..Just ANY corner in Paris is totally inspiring !
I`d add a tremendously sweet English bookstore in St.Paul which is exactly across from the Marais.The RED WHEELBARROW ,and it`s owner Penelope is originally Canadian and is one of the wittiest,funniest people I know.The place makes you feel immediatly ‘at home’ in English..thanx for the article,it makes me want to go visit again!

mia said:
February 11th, 2009 - 2:22 pm

oh I almost forgot..to add to the ‘puces’ flea markets,2 that I have visited frequently and are less known,therefore very affordable prices: one is a very small one on place d`aligre-good for home decor,and the other in Montreuil-quite big,good for clothes.ahhhh….sigh… :)

Neve said:
February 16th, 2009 - 3:56 pm

Thanks for the guide, but I was shocked to read the line, ‘be ware of pickpockets and gypsies here’ (under description of Eifel tower). It is blatantly racist.

Anna said:
February 17th, 2009 - 12:37 pm

I’m going to Paris in a few weeds and this guide is the most helpful I have found! Lovely! Thank you. Would you have any recommendation for a small hotel or something similar that is at the same time charming and affordable (for me!!, around 80 Euros). I appreciate all suggestions.

February 18th, 2009 - 12:14 pm

Neve, I’m sorry you took that warning as a racist comment. It was by no means meant like that, just a warning I was told many times over by locals and teachers in my program. “Be vigilant” and watch your stuff in particularly touristy places.

Anne

Sally said:
February 20th, 2009 - 2:38 pm

I will be visiting Paris in June. Does anyone have any recommendations for inexpensive lodging? Mama Shelter looks great (I love Phillipe Starck), but is still a little out of budget. We are not sure which area we are staying yet, but thought maybe near Bastille or Montmarte?
Thanks for the great guide!

Vicki said:
March 4th, 2009 - 3:56 pm

Sally – I, too, am going in June and have been researching apartments extensively. Try VRBO first and then the more personalized agencies I’ve found are – haveninparis.com, frenchyrentals.com, and perfectlyparis.com. They have rentals for every budget. I found Montmartre to be considerably less expensive.

lizzie said:
March 13th, 2009 - 4:29 pm

wow, I’m impressed and inspired. so much more to see in Paris! I’ll be sure to visit some of your recommendations on my next visit. thx

Bonnie said:
March 24th, 2009 - 10:44 am

Oh my poor husband! It is too bad I discovered this site before our April trip. He is now going to be dragged all over Paris to these great suggested places!

Rosie said:
March 27th, 2009 - 4:22 am

Jean-Paul Hevin Chocolates are my all time favourites. They have a tea-room upstairs, too, for lunch and morning/afternoon tea (walking distance from Colette). Or take some delicious chocolates away and cycle over to Les Tuileries to indulge! http://www.jphevin.com

Rosie said:
March 27th, 2009 - 4:44 am

oh and also the new store Merci, 111 bd Beaumarchais. It’s definitely worth “un tour”.

June 8th, 2009 - 1:35 pm

I want to thank you a million times for putting this guide together. I recently went to Paris with my husband for our honeymoon. We had this guide with us in our bag the whole entire week!!! We experienced the most amazing trip with lots of personal stops that made it more memorable!!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Brooke said:
August 17th, 2009 - 9:15 am

I’m spending 5 luxuriously self-indulgent weeks in Paris this Summer and want to thank you very much for this incredibly helpful guide. It will be a source of constant inspiration… especially on my “flâneur” days!

Winnie said:
August 27th, 2009 - 5:40 pm

Wow..am impressed by the extentive research…v. useful. this will serve as a base guide for my coming trip! thx thx

Frederic said:
September 16th, 2009 - 5:06 pm

I would add the following great museum: Jacquemart-André Museum
http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/en/jacquemart/

Danidan said:
September 30th, 2009 - 12:30 pm

Hi there,
There is a french magazine called intramuros whixh is billingual and published once a year a Paris Design Guide with a selection of “Best 300 design adresses” in paris http://www.intramuros.fr/design_guide_intramuros_magazine.php?lang=1&PHPSESSID=99d9a324b3e5667d5e5aa6f5dc097ef3

Tiffany said:
October 18th, 2009 - 12:48 am

If anyone can afford to splurge on their hotel , I highly recommend Hotel de Crillon – absolutely stunning, and The Meurice is another favorite as it is right near Angelina’s with their fabulous chocolat Africain!

Extraordinary website- I just adore it- WELL DONE ! !

Louis Vest said:
December 14th, 2009 - 8:30 pm

Wow. What an extraordinary gift to the public! Thanks for posting.

Anne L. said:
December 17th, 2009 - 12:20 pm

If you love sorting through second-hand clothes to find the perfect diamond in the rust, you may want to pay a visit to Free’p Star, where you will likely find a crowd of people searching through their collection of fabulous clothes, shoes and accessories. I bought one of my favorite dresses there at a delightful discount. Located at: 8 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie 75004 Paris. If you’re taking the metro, stop off at Rambuteau, Hotel de Ville, or Saint Paul. Enjoy!

shauneen d said:
January 8th, 2010 - 7:42 pm

wondered does anyone have any suggestions for a sweet hotel or b and b- don’t want to break the bank but somewhere special. Thanks !

January 12th, 2010 - 3:37 pm

I can highly recommend Haven in Paris – we stayed at their Abbesses apartment for two glorious weeks in Jan-Feb 2009. Although I was housebound with a bad cold for the first few days, the view of the Eiffel Tower kept me smiling.

shauneen said:
January 22nd, 2010 - 9:01 am

thanks Rebecca

Eadaoin said:
February 5th, 2010 - 5:38 pm

fantastic thank you for putting this together! i’m heading to paris on my honeymoon in may and am very much looking forward to visiting the city again :) laduree is on the top of my list!

margaret said:
February 28th, 2010 - 5:07 pm

‘looking for a great haircut. Any ideas?

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