[image above by aron wright]

today’s city guide is dedicated to nashville, tennessee! i’ve been dying to check out nashville for years and am thankful to nashville native lindsay for creating today’s guide to eating, shopping, entertainment and site-seeing in this exciting city. so, a big thanks to lindsay for sharing her local’s tour of nashville!

CLICK HERE for the full guide to nashville after the jump!

On a recent trip to Colorado to visit my brother, I met two separate groups of people who, upon learning I was from Nashville, exclaimed, “No WAY! I LOVE Nashville!” “Ok,” I thought to myself. “It’s not just me and it’s not just in my head. Nashville is an awesome city!”

The thing about Nashville is that it’s not what you expect, and it’s a very different place than it was even when I was growing up here. Nashville is the home of country music and has a comfortable, friendly feeling that pervades its atmosphere – cowboy boots, country cooking and Southern accents abound. But alongside all that is a vibrant university culture drawing students from all over and a thriving music and art scene growing to accommodate all genres. Nashville has also become a destination for transplants – people are often shocked when I tell them I’m actually from here – and has become a host city for a large number of resettled refugees and immigrants who have brought with them a glorious profusion of different cultures and foods. All this to say that Nashville is changing and growing and is an exciting place to be right now! I will say that while an awareness of design has grown exponentially over the past few years, and there are some fabulous shopping and dining options around town, there are still certainly holes in the market waiting to be filled by enterprising lovers of design.

Before you visit, there are a few resources that are super-helpful in finding out what’s happening in Music City. Now Playing Nashville is a comprehensive events calendar covering music, theater, art, fairs and festivals. The Nashvile Scene, one of our papers about town, also has events listings and a great food blog. And while we’re on food blogs, a couple I check in with regularly are Nashville Foodies and Nashville Restaurants – both have listings by price, neighborhood, and type of food.

Nashville is very much a city of neighborhoods, and this guide is arranged around them. While in some instances you can walk from one neat area to another, more often than not you’ll need a car. There are passionate and devoted people working hard to get Nashville the public transportation system every great city needs; in the meantime, though, strap on that seat belt and let’s head right for downtown!

Downtown

Nashville suffered the fate of many cities in the 20th century: watching its residents move further and further from the city center and into the ‘burbs. Until recently, downtown emptied out on evenings and weekends, but there are growing efforts toward making Nashville’s downtown denser and more alive outside of business hours, and more people are starting to actually move there – yay! There are some must-sees downtown to give you a little look into what Nashville’s all about.

The Ryman Auditorium {116 5th Ave N, 615.889.3060, 9am-4pm 7 days a week}: This one-time tabernacle church (now called the “Mother Church” of country music) was the first home of the Grand Ole Opry and has had an impressive list of greats grace its stage through the years (Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, Bob Dylan, to name a few). If music’s your thing, consider taking a tour, and certainly check out their concerts page – great acts come through all the time and there’s not a bad seat in the house! The Opry still performs here monthly – really fun to see it in its original home.

From the Ryman, make your way down Broadway, being sure to stop at Hatch Show Print {316 Broadway, 615.256.2805, M-F 9-5, Sat 10-5}. Print nuts, beware! The creaky floors and shelves stacked high with wood print blocks give you a sense of how they’ve been operating for decades, turning out the famous concert posters whose bold, blocky letters and simple color schemes defined the golden era of Country Music. They still do about 600 runs a year, each poster carefully printed by hand on machines they’ve been using since the ’40s. Take a look at the walls plastered floor to ceiling with posters they’ve done and you’ll get a sense of just how wide their range of creativity is and how vast their influence in the music world. Also a great place to pick up a not-too-expensive uniquely Nashville souvenir.

Gruhn Guitars {400 Broadway, 615.256.2033, Mon-Sat 9:30-5:30}: You are in Nashville after all! Pop in and ogle the beautiful used and vintage instruments George Gruhn has been selling and repairing for Nashville musicians for almost 40 years. This “guitar guru’s” clientele has included Eric Clapton, Johnny Cash and Paul McCartney.

Frist Center for the Visual Arts {919 Broadway, 615.244.3340, MTWSat 10-5:30, ThF 10-9, Sun 1-5:30}: This beautiful Art Deco building once served as Nashville’s downtown Post Office and is now Nashville’s premiere art museum. In the last few years we have welcomed the work of Whistler, Singer, Rodin, Monet, and Picasso – there is always a visit-worthy exhibit (or two) going on. Be sure also to check the calendar for happenings – there are frequent lectures and in nice weather they host “Frist Fridays” with food, drink, music and the freedom to wander through the current exhibits after work!

Downtown Public Library {615 Church St, 615.862.5800, T-Fri 9-6, Sat 9-5, Sun 2-5}: If the library’s slogan, “A City With A Great Library Is A Great City,” is true, then Nashville is a great city indeed. Opened in 2001, the new Main Library is a sweeping neoclassical edifice of marble floors, high ceilings, special collections rooms and art exhibits. The library’s courtyard is a peaceful place to enjoy your lunch, and as a proud Nashvillian, the grand reading room on the top level with a view of the capital frankly just gets me a little choked up. Check the library events page for lectures and exhibits – they often have great kids’ shows and activities as well.

Schermerhorn Symphony Center {1 Symphony Place, 615.687.6500, box office M-F 10-6, Sat 10-2}: A point of interest for architecture lovers, the concert hall at the Schermerhorn is one of the few in the world that has windows and employs natural light. The grand hall is light, airy and adorned with subtle pieces of Tennessee symbolism (irises, for example, are the Tennessee state flower) and is home to one of the best up-and-coming orchestras in the country, poised for greatness in their resplendent new world-class facility. Stunning!

Shelby Street Pedestrian Bridge {accessible from 3rd Ave S, a block or so off Broadway} is a walker-friendly expanse over the Cumberland River that offers some of the best views of the Nashville skyline.

If you’ve ever wondered who put Elvis in his signature gold lame, who made Johnny Cash the man in black, or who designs the sequin-y masterpieces worn by country music and Grand Ole Opry stars, you need look no further than the studios of Manuel {1922 Broadway, 615.321.5444, M-F 9-6}. The fashion legend has clothed everyone from presidents to pop stars and also designed the insignia of the Grateful Dead and the Rolling Stones. You can visit the studio of the “Rhinestone Rembrandt” right here in Nashville – they just request that you call ahead before doing so.

The Arcade {connecting 4th and 5th between Church St and Union St}: Cute covered pedestrian shopping arcade that gives you a sense of what Nashville was like decades ago. The Arcade contains mostly just lunch spots now, but a few art galleries have opened on the second floor and are included in the city-wide Art Crawl (see below). Worth a wander-through. (My great-great-uncle drove his Model T through the arcade when he was a young rebel in the ’20s.)

Rymer Gallery {233 5th Ave N, 615.752.6030, T-Sat 11-6}: One of several art galleries downtown, the Rymer features local and Southern artists, and you can stop in and pick up a Nashville Association of Art Dealers map showing a listing of galleries around town. A couple of doors down is The Arts Company {215 5th Ave N, 615.254.2040, T-Sat 10-5}, another gallery showing contemporary art. If you’re around on the first Thursday of the month, check out Art After Hours, a monthly, city-wide art crawl when galleries stay open later for your browsing pleasure. There are also FirstArtSaturdays – same idea. Other galleries downtown are Estel Gallery {1115 Rosa L. Parks Blvd, 615.251.8997, T-Fri 11-4, Sat 12-3}, showing modern art, and International Art Gallery {800 Broadway, 615.254.0235, M-Sat 10-5:30}, offering a collection of mostly African items.

For a night out downtown, you’ve got a few options ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous. There are, of course, the honky-tonks lining Broadway, always good for a fun, loud, country-music-themed night out dancing. Of interest among these is Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge {422 Broadway, 615.726.0463, M-Sat 10am-2:30am, Sun 10am-midnight}, the former hangout of the stars of the Opry, who would slip across the alleyway and into the back door of Tootsie’s after their shows in the Ryman. On the other end of the spectrum is the Oak Bar in the Hermitage Hotel {231 6th Ave N, 888.888.9414}, a luxurious, wood-paneled lair underneath the five-star hotel that is a perfect place for a quiet, very civilized nightcap. While you’re there, be sure to sneak a peak at the incredible marble art deco men’s room downstairs – ladies, you too!

A superb addition to Nashville’s cadre of coffeehouses has just opened not far from Broadway: Crema {15 Hermitage Ave, 615.255.8311, M-F 7-7, 8:30-5 Sat}, an espresso lovers’ coffeebar that gets its drinks just right. Nice porch, cozy, calm interior and pastries from Sweet 16th Bakery in East Nashville.

Out front of Nashville’s courthouse {1 Public Square # 506} is a green space that hosts the new LiveOnTheGreen, a series of free, outdoor concerts highlighting locally- and nationally-known acts on Thursdays during September and October. Be sure to check and see if a show is happening while you’re in town!

If you’re at all interested in taking a tour of Nashville, take a look at Nash Trash Tours {tours leave from the Farmer’s Market, 615.226.7300}, an irrevrent look at downtown and some of country music’s “lowlights” led by the hilarious Jugg Sisters on their big pink bus. The tours book months in advance so be sure to call ahead!

Germantown

As its name suggests, Germantown was home to Nashville’s German immigrant population starting in the mid-1800s, and while the neighborhood has had its ups and downs over the years, it has had a fantastic rebirth over the last decade or so and is now home not only to some of Nashville’s most prized architectural treasures but to some of its finest restaurants as well. A small group of Germantown residents have fought to preserve and beautifully restore Germantown’s architectural heritage; it’s a treat to walk among and admire the charming homes the German immigrants built over a century ago that are still inhabited by Nashvillians. Every fall, Nashville’s Oktoberfest celebrates this heritage with appropriate quantities of beer and lederhosen.

Germantown is just adjacent to Nashville’s Bicentennial Mall {600 James Robertson Pkwy, 615.741.5280}, a sweeping urban green space that is both a nice refuge from the asphalt and a lesson in Tennessee history. An oft-overlooked gem built in celebration of Tennessee’s 200th anniversary of statehood, the Mall has an amphitheatre, war memorials, and an interactive map of Tennessee complete with fountains that draw hordes of children to frolic in during the summer months. The Bicentennial Mall adjoins Nashville’s Farmer’s Market {900 Rosa L. Parks Blvd, 615.880.2001, 8am-6pm 7 days a week}, two vast pavilions joined by a central food court where you can choose from a huge selection of the finest produce Tennessee farmers have to offer, or where you can grab a quick meal or coffee – food options include Southern barbeque, Indian, Caribbean, Cajun and Middle Eastern.

DrinkHaus {500 Madison St #103, 615.255.5200, M-F 6-6, Sat 9-10, Sun 9-3}: Clean, bright and fresh with a sleek interior, DrinkHaus is a coffee shop offering the finest espresso and tea, pastries, panini and gelato, all made locally and with a commitment to the environment. Try a cappucino with orange rind or their signature prosciutto, goat cheese, honey & pear panini. Also all their takeout cups are biodegradable and compostable – what’s not to love?!

Savannah Tea Company {707 Monroe St, 615.383.1832, M-Sat 10-5}: The civilized ritual of afternoon tea lives on at Savannah Tea Company, where you can slow life down for a bit and take full afternoon tea with scones, clotted cream, finger sandwiches and all in an old Germantown home. Chose from over 100 teas or shop for a teapot from their collection.

Lazzaroli Pasta {1314 5th Ave N, 615.291.9922, T-Sat 10-6}: Specialty shop selling hand-made pasta and gourmet Italian sauces, cheeses, oils…bene!

Cocoa Tree {1200 5th Ave N # 104, 615.255.5060, M-Sat 10-8}: Nashville chocolatier Bethany Thouin concocts hand-made truffles with flavors like coriander-coconut and balsamic raspberry – a great gift. Also a cute dessert stop with a selection of chocolate milk, hot cocoa, coffee drinks, cakes and fondue (call ahead for fondue).

Monell’s {1235 6th Ave N, 615.248.4747, lunch M-F 10:30-2, dinner T-Sat 5-8:30, country breakfast Sat 8:30-1, Sun 8:30-11, Sunday meal 11-4}: Eating at Monell’s is an experience as they don’t take reservations and everyone is seated family-style, so be prepared to pass the biscuits to someone you’ve never laid eyes on before. You are brought whatever delicious Southern dishes they have cooked up that day and they keep the refills coming. Warm atmosphere in an old home and a great place to make like a true Southerner and strike up conversation with a complete stranger! A Nashville classic.

Mad Platter Restaurant {1239 6th Ave N, 615.242.2563, lunch M-F, dinner W-Sun}: Mad Platter has been a staple of the Nashville dining scene for 19 years now, and its success is due to its commitment to fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared exquisitely. Housed in – surprise! – a historic Germantown home.

Germantown Cafe {1200 5th Ave N #100, 615.242.3226, lunch M-Sat 11-2, dinner nightly from 5, brunch Sun 10:30-2}: Straightforward menu with an upscale twist in a sleek interior that looks out over the Nashville skyline. Nice relaxed atmosphere.

City House {1222 4th Ave N, 615.736.5838}: This is a relative newcomer on the food scene, and I want to say that I myself have not yet eaten here. BUT, from what I hear, the space itself – an urban/rustic house that’s easy to miss – is gorgeous, the bar offers all kinds of fun and interesting cocktails, and the food is…well…finding its way. Some have told me it’s one of the best meals to be had in Nashville, others have said not so much. It might be worth stopping in for a drink to check out the interior. If you do, let me know how your experience is!

East Nashville

“Over the river and through the ‘hood,” East Nashville bumper stickers proudly proclaim. Talk about urban renewal! The land on the other side of the river used to be a black hole in many Nashvillians’ mental geographies. But, as with so many parts of the city, East Nashville has had new life breathed into it and is now a hopping area for eating, going out and shopping. It is also the fertile ground where many budding Nashville artists and edgy types are choosing to plant themselves. So pull out your skinny jeans and expose that sleeve tattoo…hipsters here we come!

Many East Nashville destinations are within walking distance of “Five Points,” a big star intersection of five streets.

The Turnip Truck {970 Woodland St, 615.650.3600, M-Sat 8-8, Sun 10-7} is East Nashville’s indepentent answer to Whole Foods and sponsors a farmers’ market each Wednesday from 3:30-6:30pm at Free Will Baptist Church, 210 S 10th St, one block away from the store.

The Groove {103 S 11th St, 615.228.2745, M-Th 11-8, F-Sat 11-9, Sun 1-6} is a nice, clean record store selling mostly vinyl.

Art & Invention Gallery/Garage Mahal {1106 Woodland St, 615.226.2070, F-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5}: Art & Invention Gallery features local artisans including painters, jewelry makers, sculptors and makers of home wares and do five to six shows a year. Consistently gets good reviews by Nahvillians!

Wonders on Woodland {1110 Woodland St, 615.226.5300, Th-Sun 11-6} is a Victorian home whose downstairs holds a wealth of vintage goods from delicate early-20th-century children’s clothing to kitsch ’60s tableware and perhaps the biggest selection of vintage jewelry you’ll find in town. Sparkly brooches, cameos, strings of beads…I could spend hours choosing. The upper floor of the house is an art gallery with rotating exhibits by contemporary artists.

Randall Grace {1628 Fatherland St, 615.226.9166}: Mr. Randall Grace hand makes beautiful, beautiful wooden furniture. While he doesn’t have a lot on display in his workshop (though his workshop is really cool to see in and of itself), there are some examples of his new creations and of things he’s restored. He can custom make just about anything you would want or need for your home, and is a friendly, welcoming host, offering you warm conversation and lessons in Nashville history. Mr. Grace and his works are treasures.

I Dream of Weenie {1108 Woodland St, 615.226.2622, M-Th 10:30-4, F-Sat 10:30-6} is East Nashville’s too-stinkin’-cute hotdog stand right off Five Points. They have all kinds of dawgs, all made fresh, some with a Southern flair featuring Tennessee Chow Chow!

Pied Piper Creamery {114 S 11th St, 615.227.4114, M-Th 12-9, F-Sat 12-10, Sun 1-9} dips up home-churned ice cream in flavors like “Trailer Trash” and “My Cherry Amour” and shares its living space with Elizabeth Griswold’s Great Stuff so you can get your two scoops, browse the pretty wares and then rock on the porch as you finish your cone.

Sweet 16th Bakery {311 N 16th St, 615.226.8367, T-F 7-2, Sat 8-1}: Have you ever had a perfect scone? I did once, and it was from Sweet 16th. Dan and Ellen Einstein are living the dream and serving pastries both sweet and savory at their 16th Street shop. Every neighborhood needs a local bakery for people to flock to and drool, and this is East Nashville’s.

Marche Artisan Foods {1000 Main St, 615.262.1111, T-F breakfast 8-11, lunch 11-4, supper 5-9, Sat brunch 8-4, Sun brunch 9-4}: My friend once said to me, “Marche is where I go when I want to feel like I’m not in Nashville for a little while.” So true, Dean…so true. An open, airy cafe with the feel of a European bistro, Marche is the younger sister of Cafe Margot and the brainchild of locavore chef extraordinaire Margot McCormack. Plating the freshest, most local fare at extremely reasonable prices, Marche offers breakfast, lunch and dinner and is a delightful weekend brunch spot, but be prepared to wait…though with such good coffee, such a lovely interior, and the promise of such a tasty meal, the waiting is a pleasure.

Margot Cafe & Bar {1017 Woodland St, 615.227.4668, T-Sat bar 5-10, dinner 6-10, Sun brunch 11-2}: This anchor of the East Nashville dining scene has been creating some of the best meals in Nashville for several years now, inspired by the cuisines of France and Italy. Cozy interior with exposed brick and upstairs balcony seating. Fresh, local…a mainstay for Nashville foodies.

Sky Blue Coffee & Bistro {700A Fatherland St, 615.770.7097, 9-4 every day}: Nestled in a residential strip, Sky Blue is a cozy diner with accents of vintage furniture and hearty brunches chock full of potatoes, eggs, sausage and fluffy pancakes.

Bongo East {107 S 11th St, 615.777.east, M-F 6:30-6, Sat-Sun 7-6}: The East Nashville location of the locally-owned Bongo Java coffee chain and also their roasting plant – stop and get your jolt of caffeine.

There are several bars within walking distance of Five Points to make for a fun night out: 3 Crow Bar {1020 Woodland St}, Red Door East {1010 Forrest Ave}, and The 5 Spot {1006 Forrest Ave} are laid-back beer joints (The 5 Spot also being a live music…spot), while Rumours East {1112 Woodland St} is the East Nashville home of Rumours Wine Bar – a lovely setting for a glass of wine and meal in a refurbished Victorian home. Just up Woodland Street is The Lipstick Lounge {1400 Woodland St}, a gay-friendly venue with a wicked karaoke night.

A little further from Five Points are some other noteworthy eating and drinking establishments worth checking out. On Eastland Avenue are:

Rosepepper Cantina {1907 Eastland Ave, 615.227.4777, M-Th lunch 11-2, dinner 4-9:30; F lunch 11-2, dinner 4-10:30; Sat 11-10:30; Sun 4-9}, a Mexican joint with punchy decor, great margaritas and a hopping patio.

Ugly Mugs {1886 Eastland Ave, 615.915.0675, M-F 6a-10p, Sat-Sun 7a-10p}: New coffee shop with sleek and spacious interior, room to spread out, and a cute back terrace.

And up the road a little further still are Family Wash {2038 Greenwood Ave, 615.226.6070, T-Sat 6pm-midnight}, a beloved neighborhood bar with live music every night it’s open and a $10 Pint and Pie night (hearty shepherd’s pie and a draft brewski) every Tuesday. You’ll also find the relatively new Zavos {1115 Porter Rd, 615.258-4637, T-Sat 5-11}, a restaurant owned and operated by a long-time East Nashville family and serving up delicious, authentic Greek fare.

Hillsboro Village

Adjacent to both Vanderbilt and Belmont Universities, the strip known as Hillsboro Village is one of Nashville’s best-established spots for shopping and going out.

Zeitgeist Gallery {1819 21st Ave S, 615.256.4805, M-F 10-5, Sat 11-5}: A combination art gallery and architecture studio with an oft-changing exhibit by a contemporary artist.

Fire Finch {1818 21st S, 615.385.5090, M-F 10-6, Sat 12-5}: Small, colorful boutique that stocks a whimsical array of home decorations, children’s clothes & toys, beautiful jewelry and women’s apparel.

Posh Home/Retropolitan {1813 21st Ave S, 615.383.3455, M-Sat 10-5, sometimes open later on Th, F and Sat evenings}: New sibling of Posh clothing and shoe boutique that offers a clean, colorful collection of vintage, new and refurbished furniture and home decorations.

Fido{1812 21st Ave S, 615.777.3436, M-Th 7-11, F 7-Midnight, Sat 8-Midnight, Sun 8-11}: Fido inhabits what was once Jones’ Pet Shop and is part of Nashville’s own independent Bongo Java chain of fair trade and organic coffeeshops who do all their roasting in Nashville. This buzzing coffee joint is an excellent place to get some work done (following the lead of the myriad students there daily) or meet friends for a drink – they serve breakfast, lunch & dinner along with beer and wine. Fido is always hopping, but given its convivial atmosphere and ample space to spread out, it’s not hard to see why.

Jackson’s {1800 21st Ave S, 615.385.9968, M-Th 11-2am, F 11-3am, Sat 9-3am, Sun 9-midnight}: Jackson’s is the place to stop for a reasonably-priced panini or salad, or a drink on the patio, whose prime people-watching tables are in high demand during the warmer months. Good late-night option.

Pangaea {1721 21st Ave S, 615.269.9665, M-Th 10-6, FSat 10-9, Sun 1-5}: Pangaea is my go-to spot when I need a gift. This bright, fun, funky boutique with sense of mischief carries everything from cards & stationery by Waste Not Paper to luxurious soaps to their superb selection of jewelry to handmade folk art pieces from Central America. I always find something that fits the bill, be it earrings from the $7 earring rack or a set of Liberace paper dolls.

Posh {1801 21st Ave S, 615.383.9840, M-Sat 10-7, Sun 12-6}: Wide selection of men’s and women’s clothes, shoes and accessories by of-the-moment designers. A Nashville original that now has another branch in the Hill Center in Green Hills (see below for Green Hills).

The Belcourt Theatre {2102 Belcourt Ave, 615.383.9140}: On the brink of closure in the early ’90s, the Belcourt was saved by a grassroots movement in town and is now Nashville’s only indie neighborhood movie house. The Belcourt always has an offering of 2-3 independent, foreign or classic films, the likes of which you won’t find in any other theaters around town. And they have a bar! So grab a beer and some popcorn and find your way to a creaky seat, and you’ll find yourself taken back to a simpler era of moviegoing.

Social Graces {1704 21st Ave S, 615.383.1911, M-Sat 10-6, Sun 11-4}: Lovely stationery (think Smock, Jack & Lulu), wrapping paper by the sheet, custom cards & invitations, and a variety of gifts.

Pancake Pantry {1796 21st Ave S, 615.383.0659, M-F 6-3, Sat-Sun 6-4}: If you wander through Hillsboro Village on a Saturday or Sunday morning, doubtless you will wonder why throngs of people are queueing on the sidewalk outside Pancake Pantry. As a Nashvillian, let me tell you: it’s just what we do. Pancake Pantry is an institution here – the waitstaff have been there for aeons and are sweet as can be, and there are light, fluffy pancakes of every ilk. Go on an off-peak hour and you won’t have to wait, and order a stack of buckwheat cakes with honey or my personal favorite, sweet potato pancakes. Oh man.

Sportsman’s Grille {1601 21st Ave S, 615.320.1633, M-Th 11-10, F-Sat 11-11, Sun 11-10 (upstairs bar open ’til 2am F, Sat, Sun)}: While you’re in the South, you probably need to try some barbeque. I sometimes find myself daydreaming about pulled pork on cajun cornbread. Thanks a heap, Sportsman’s Grille.

Davis Cookware & Cutlery Shop {1717 21st Ave S, 615.298.4728, M-Sat 10-5:30}: When you walk in the front door, you might think you’ve stumbled into their storeroom by accident, but look a little closer and Messrs. Davis (Senior and Junior) will soon make themselves apparent. This father-son duo has been running Davis Cookware for 30 years in the same space, and when it comes to cooking, cooking utensils, coffee and tea, these men know their stuff and absolutely delight in telling you about it. They have all kinds of kitchen gadgets and tools – there’s no telling what you’ll come across if you rummage a bit through the charmingly unorganized “aisles”. They also specialize in coffees (they have over 50 different kinds), tea (well over 100 kinds!) and their associated paraphernalia and know their hot brewed beverages from A-Z.

BookMan/BookWoman {1713 21st Ave S, 615.383.6555, Sun-M 11-5, T-Sat 10-6}: Cozy used book store with meandering aisles of books stacked two or three deep – a vast selection including sections on Art, Architecture, Art History, the South, Tennessee History and First Editions.

Provence Breads & Cafe {1705 21st Ave S, 615.386.0363, M-F 7-7, Sat 8-7, Sun 8-6}: Undoubtedly the best pastries in town are made by Provence. Buttery croissants and pristine cakes and tarts, plus a menu of fresh salads and sandwiches.

Sunset Grill {2001 Belcourt Ave, 615.386.3663, hours are a little much to type here}: “Affordable, casual fine dining,” says their website. Not sure I can sum it up much better. Sunset has been a staple of Nashville dining for years now – a great place to go for a special occasion dinner without too much fancy-schmancy hoopla, but you’re going to get a darn good meal made of fresh and local ingredients. Sunset has an extensive wine list for the oenophiles among us (something like 300 wines on offer) , but there is one thing that endears it to the younger (read poorer) crowd: its late-night menu. Want a terrific meal at 11:30 at night that won’t break the bank? Head to Sunset. You might even strike the jackpot and get to see their half-price wine list too.

Belmont Boulevard

A thoroughfare lined with charming homes and a favorite route for Nashville runners and walkers, Belmont Boulevard takes you from David Lipscomb University at on end to Belmont University at the other. The neighborhood on either side of Belmont is worth a stroll through to see the the idyllic houses and streets with sidewalks. On the end by Belmont University (site of one of the presidential debates in the lead-up to the 2008 election!) you’ll find a little clutch of places to shop and eat.

Venus & Mars {2009 Belmont Blvd, 615.915.4846, M-Sat 10-7, Sun 11-5}: Venus & Mars is a rare vintage store in which great thought has been put into the layout and design of the store itself. It inhabits an old house and has a carefully-selected collection of men’s and women’s clothing in teriffic condition – they even have a room of women’s lingerie and rent vintage gowns for special occasions!

Bongo Java {2007 Belmont Blvd, 615.385.JAVA, M-F 7-11, Sat-Sun 8-11}: Nashville’s original indie coffeehouse. Expansive patio perfect for studying or readying, and upstairs is a theater and performance space. Bongo gained some notoriety for their famous cinnamon roll that looked just like Mother Theresa (called The Nun Bun) which, tragically, has been stolen but whose image is still enshrined in a cabinet there.

Cha Chah {2013 Belmont Blvd, 615.298.1430, M, W, Th, Sun 5-11}: Tapas restaurant with clean white linens and a patio whose windows open to the fresh air in nice weather. Sleek, trim interior – very nice spot for drinks and dinner.

PM {2017 Belmont Blvd, 615.297.2070, M-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 4pm-1am}: Asian fusion cuisine and a patio that’s always bustling, especially on 2-for-1 beer nights.

12South & The Gulch

For the sake of full disclosure, I may as well go on and tell you that I am biased in a big way toward the 12South neighborhood (ok, yes, I live here). Growing up in Nashville, there used to be only one reason to come to 12South, and that was Becker’s Bakery – may it rest in peace. But, as with so many areas in Music City, 12S has experienced a revitalization over the last decade that has brought it a handful of great restaurants, boutiques and coffee shops in a blessedly walkable environment that still has a little grit around the edges. Park on a side street and take a stroll among the ’20s and ’30s bungalows – my biases aside, I think you’ll love it. (Even as I write this, the finishing touches are going on a newly-built storefront/loft space which will bring, among other things, a gourmet burger joint and a local grocer/produce market to the ‘hood. More to come as it progresses…)

At the far end, across from Sevier Park, tucked (unadvertised) in the bottom of a funky peach building, is Las Paletas {2907 12th Ave S, 615.386.2101, T-Sat 12-7}, a gourmet Mexican popsicle shop owned by two sisters who learned their craft in Mexico and who produce such heavenly selections as rose, avocado, basil, hibiscus and chocolate & hot pepper. Once featured on “Throwdown! with Bobby Flay,” Las Paletas’ menu is constantly changing – but beware, cash or checks only (don’t think I haven’t written them a check for $2.50).

Up from Las Paletas is Corner Music {2705 12th Ave S, 615.297.9559, M-F 9-6, Sat 10-5, closed Sun}: Always exciting to stick your head in and see what a legendary Nashville music store is like – no telling who you might see demoing a guitar!

Portland Brew {2605 12th Ave S, 615.292.9004, M-Sat 6:45-midnight, Sun 7:45-10}: All their beans are roasted right here on 12th Avenue. Friendly folks and some of the best espresso drinks in town, plus local art on the walls.

A recent addition to Nashville’s fashion and design scene, imogene + willie {2601 12th Ave S, 615.292.5005, M-F 12-8, Sat 12-6} features an impeccable assortment of salvaged vintage clothes, boots, bags and accessories along with clothing and jeans from smaller design labels and fabrics chosen from abroad. They also custom make and custom fit jeans – the old sewing machines alone warrant a stop inside. Opened by two Kentuckians with years of experience in the high-end denim industry, this erstwhile gas station got a big time face lift (complete with back terrace lounge area) and is now one of the chicest interior spaces I’ve seen in a while – a perfect balance of rough and refined. Come on a Thursday night when they throw open the storefront windows, the taco truck pulls up, and it turns into and all-out party, blurring the lines between shop, hangout spot and restaurant.

Frothy Monkey {2509 12th Ave S, 615.292.1808, M-F 7-7, Sat-Sun 8-7}: Relaxing coffee shop atmosphere that welcomes scores of studious Vanderbilt grad students with a fresh menu of local and organic sandwiches, salads, and sweets.

Katy K Designs {2407 12th Ave S, 615.297.4242, M-F 11-6, Sat 12-6, Sun 1-5}: If you’re on a mission not to leave Nashville without an embroidered cowboy shirt and gleaming belt buckle, Katy K is your stop. Quirky shop captures Nashville’s retro/country&western/kitsch vibe in everything from crinoline square dance underskirts to bolo ties to snarky novelty tees to fringed leather roper gloves, all under the roof of a ’50s ranch house. Totally weird…totally love it.

Mirror {2317 12th Ave S, 615.383.8330, Closed M, T-Th 5-10pm, F-Sat 5-11, Sun brunch}: Some of the tastiest and most interesting cocktails in town are created behind the bar at Mirror, where the bartenders infuse their own flavored liquors in huge glass containers of all shapes, visible behind the counter. Great menu of small plates to share or larger portions for a full-sized meal. Cozy, sparkly interior makes this a great place for dinner and drinks.

12 South Taproom {2318 12th Ave S, 615.463.7552, M-Sat 11-midnight or 1}: A more laid-back alternative to Mirror, the Taproom has a broad beer list including many local and regional brews and a solid offering of tasty, higher-end bar food. When the weather is nice, the Taproom patio is one of the best places in town to park it, soak in the sun, and enjoy afternoon beers with friends. Live music several nights of the week, all listed on the calendar on their website.

Rumours Wine and Art Bar {2304 12th Ave S, 615.292.9400, M-Sat 5-midnight}: I don’t think a patio can get any daggum cuter than that of Rumours Wine Bar. Twinkling lights, brightly-colored cushioned benches, wine by the glass or bottle, and a small menu of fresh, seasonal dinner offerings are the draws at this 12 South gem.

Savant Vintage Couture {2302 12th Ave S, 615.385.0856,}: Carefully-chosen selection of vintage clothing, jewelry, bags and some fabulous retro home wares. The owner has a knack for finding unique pieces, but be ready to shell out a little extra for it.

Local Honey {1207 Linden Ave, 615.915.1354, M-Sat 11-6}: Smaller collection of vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry, plus some contemporary pieces from smaller Nashville designers, all at very reasonable prices.

magpie etc. {2227 10th Ave S, 615.498.4112, Sat 12-5 and other times by appointment}: This diminutive pink building was conceived by its two owners as a space for local artisans to showcase their art, apparel, and music. A stroll through reveals handmade jewelry, metal sculpture, batik and fabric art, paintings and unique clothing handmade by one of the owners.

If you continue North toward downtown on 12th Avenue South, you enter an up-and-coming part of town called The Gulch. While there are a few establishments here I could mention, there is one it would be a crime to omit: the humble Station Inn {402 12th Ave S, 615.255.3307, doors open at 7pm every day, shows start at 9 unless otherwise noted}. A Nashville institution for 30-plus years featuring live bluegrass seven nights a week, the Station Inn has managed to retain its character and its loyalty to its music without selling out to the touristas. It’s the kind of place where the bandleader on stage will say, “Hey y’all, our friend Jimmy’s here in the audience tonight. Jimmy, why don’t you come up here and play one with us?”, and the guy at the table next to you will saunter up, take to the stage, and just happen to be a mandolin virtuoso. Don’t like bluegrass? Spend an evening watching the pickers’ fingers fly and letting the sweet four-part harmonies wash over you, and then see how you feel.

If you head South on 12th away from downtown, it eventually becomes Granny White (one of Nashville’s endearing idiosyncrasies is that some roads name change on you with no advance warning). And on Granny White, across from David Lipscomb University, is Copper Kettle {4004 Granny White Pk, 615.383.7242, M-F 11-8, closed Sat, Sun brunch 10-2}, an eatery featuring fresh and delicious Southern fare and a weekend brunch spread to challenge the heartiest appetite. If you have to wait, grab a coffee and meander next door to adorable Rhino Used Books {4006 Granny White Pk, 615.279.0309, MTThSat 10-5, WF 10-7, Sun 10-3} where the friendly staff can help you find what you’re looking for among the tidy shelves.

8th Avenue

If you love antiquing, don’t miss the ten or so antique stores strung along 8th Avenue from Gleaves Street to Bradford Avenue comprising Nashville’s Antique District. Here are some favorites:

Downtown Antique Mall {612 8th Ave S, 615.256.6616, M-Sat 10-5:30, Sun 1-5:30}: Oh dear. If I had more money and a bigger apartment to decorate, this place would be dangerous. One turn about the creaky floors of this rambling railroad warehouse building and I’m full of ideas for projects! Though there are some more expensive pieces, a lot of what you’ll find here is really affordable.

Cane-Ery Antiques {2112 8th Ave S, 615.269.4780, M-F 9-5, Sat 10-4}: The Cane-Ery is a treasure trove of beautiful and unique tables, armoires, chests and cabinets stacked literally floor to ceiling, and while everything is in great condition, the prices definitely reflect this. Crafters will appreciate that the Cane-Ery has everything you need to make a basket from scratch or to re-cane your own chair (they will also re-cane for you, or re-wire a lamp, for that matter). But perhaps the most fun thing are the bins upon bins and drawers upon drawers of door knobs, latches, hooks, pulls and closures of every kind. So much fun to rummage!

Pre to Post Modern {2110 8th Ave S, 615.292.1958, M-Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5}: Fun, bright, retro furniture, clothing and trinkets.

Grimey’s {1604 8th Ave S, 615.254.4801, M-Sat 11-8, Sun 1-6}: A must-see for music lovers! Legendary record store selling new and “pre-loved” music on CD or vinyl. Often have in-store guests and concerts, and staff member Doyle hosts “The Indie Underground Hour” weekly on local independent radio station Lightning 100 (100.1 FM). Store adjoins well-known rock venue The Basement (615.254.8006, doors open within an hour of show) if you want to catch a show (Mettalica actually played a secret show here last summer).

All Seasons Garden & Brewing {924 8th Ave S, 615.214.5465, M-Sat 9-6}: In need of some earth-friendly inspiration for your garden or back patio? Have questions about growing something hydroponically? Thinking about brewing your own beer or making your own cheese during these tough economic times? All Seasons is the place to start. They even have a little section of books to help you out!

Textile Fabrics {2717 Franklin Pk, 615.297.5346, M-Sat 10-6}: As you carry on down 8th, it becomes Franklin Pike, and just under the crisscrossing overpasses you’ll find Textile Fabrics, a store that will make your head spin with its selection of beautiful fabrics, buttons, ribbons and lace. Some fabrics are from smaller designers, some are vintage patterns, and word on the street is that there are deals to be had in the remnants room in the back. For everything else, be prepared to pay a little extra.

Right next door to Textile you’ll find Merridian Home Furnishings {2711 Franklin Pk, 615.463.0555, M-Sat 10-6, Sun 1-6}, where they import much of what they sell from India and China. Gorgeous chests, beds, tables and chairs, many of which are made with salvaged or re-purposed pieces of wood, plus some frames, mirrors, fabrics and other home accents. Interesting pieces you won’t find anywhere else in Nashville!

Eating-wise on 8th Avenue, you’ve got a couple of good comfort food-ish options. Considered by some to be the best meat-and-three, if not the the best lunch plate, in town, Arnold’s Country Kitchen {605 8th Ave S, 615.256.4455, M-F 6:00am-2:30pm} is just across from the Downtown Antique Mall. Apparently Arnold is something of a perfectionist and people line up to eat his food. There’s also Sylvan Park {2330 Franklin Pk, 615.269.9716, M-F 6:30am-8pm, Sat 6:30-2pm, closed Sun}, another classic meat-and-three that’s a Nashville institution. A little further down, you’ll find Athens Family Restaurant {2526 Franklin Pk, 615.383.2848, MT 7am-8pm, W-Sat open 24 hours, Sun close at 2pm}, a late-night option serving hearty and very tasty Greek and American dishes. For drinks, try Melrose Neighborhood Pub {2535 Franklin Pk, 615.712.8160, 11am-2am 7 nights a week}, a casual place to meet friends for a pitcher of beer and some fun with the jukebox.

Green Hills

So…Green Hills is no longer green or particularly hilly, and the traffic is often…not ideal. BUT: there are some great reasons to swing through besides celebrity-spotting at the swank Green Hills mall and rubbing shoulders with some of Nashville’s most well-heeled. To wit:

Bluebird Cafe {4104 Hillsboro Pk, 615.383.1461, M-Th 5:30-11:30, F-Sun 5:30-midnight}: Driving by this nondescript strip mall, you would never guess that wedged between two shops is one of the most storied listening rooms in the music world. For aspiring artists, The Bluebird is the place to play and get heard – check out this list of notables who have played here and been discovered over the years. There are usually two shows a night, one at 6ish and one at 9ish, but the Bluebird will stress that they are a listening room – i.e. not a place to come and chat with friends over drinks while some band plays in the background. Call ahead to get yourself a seat for a show and scope out some new talent!

The new Hill Center, a pedestrian-friendly strip of shops and eateries in Green Hills (great for a girls’ day out shopping), features some stores that are Nashville originals next to Nashville’s newish Anthropologie and Whole Foods:

H. Audrey {4027 Hillsboro Pk # 703, 615.760.5701, M-Sat 10-7, Sun 12-6}: During her extensive travel and touring abroad, singer/songwriter Holly Williams noticed a distinct gap in the higher end of the Nashville fashion scene, and in response opened her boutique, H. Audrey. Though filled with pieces by some of the finest in fashion design (Alexander McQueen, Hanii Y), my favorite thing at H. Audrey are the incredible portraits of famous musicians in their heydays covering the walls (and also for sale).

two elle {4025 Hillsboro Pk #505, 615.269.9954, M-Sat 10-7, Sun 11-6}: I never quite got what the name “two elle” meant until my friend explained to me that 2L is slang for a second-year law student (2L = two elle), which is exactly what Rachel Lowe was when she decided to take a break and open her fun, spunky boutique with nerd-chic overtones. Hip clothes for men and women from Steven Alan, Modern Amusement – collegiate and fun fun fun!

PoPo Cool Kid Stuff {4017 Hillsboro Pike #309A, 615.269.6964, M-Sat 10-7, Sun 12-5}: PoPo offers kid stuff you won’t find elsewhere in Nashville – practical, stylish solutions for parents (very hip-looking messenger diaper bags for dad, for example), exceptional toys and clothes.

Bella Linea {2210 Crestmoor Rd, 615.352.4041, M-Sat 10-6}: Nashville’s source for the finest in home linens.

Bread & Company {4105 Hillsboro Pk, 615.292.7323, M-F 6:30am-8pm, Sat-Sun 7am-8pm}: Bread & Co. is a Nashville chain with four locations across the city – perfect stop for a lunch sandwich on fresh-baked bread or a crunchy salad. They also have a huge case of gourmet pastries and, in my humble opinion, the best fruit tea in town (if you’re not familiar with Southern fruit tea or tea punch, give it a try!).

Kalamata’s {3764 Hillsboro Pk, 615.383.8700, M-Th 11-8, F-Sat 11-9}: It doesn’t look like much from the outside, being hidden in a stripmall and all, but the good folks at Kalamata’s turn out exceptionally fresh and delicious Mediterranean fare with an eye for your waistline. Perfect for an inexpensive, quick and actually healthy meal made to order right in front of you.

Another little street in Green Hills worth perusing is Bandywood Drive, where you’ll find:

The Food Company {2211 Bandywood Dr, 615.313.8111, M-Sat 10-7}: A quiet lunch stop far from the madding crowd on Hillsboro Pike, Food Co. offers homey soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts and runs an extensive catering business as well. It also adjoins the Greenhouse Bar, an actual greenhouse and a laid-back place to enjoy a cocktail among the greenery. If you find yourself on Bandywood Drive, you might want to pop into the clutch of semi-hidden tiny boutiques surrounding the small courtyard at 2209 Bandywood, including The Perfect Pair (exclusive shoes, bags and accessories), Habit (women’s clothing), I See London (lingerie and lovely underthings). While there is a shortage of good stationery stores in Nashville, The Paper Place {2136 Bandywood Dr, 615.298-9955, M-F 9-5, Sat 9-4} is a tried-and-true standby with a beautiful selection of fine papers and cards who can create and customize just about anything you would need on paper. You’ll also find Woo Skincare & Cosmetics {2154 Bandywood Dr, 615.383.2170, M-Sat 10-6} a hidden oasis of quality makeup and high-end skincare products with an extremely knowledgeable staff, and across the way from Woo is Ash Blue {2170 Bandywood Dr, 615.383.4882, M-F 10-6, Sat 10-5}, a home store with a well-edited collection of furniture, tableware, gifts and jewelry.

Krave {2109 Abbott Martin Rd #4, 615.279.1500, M-Th 11-10, F-Sat 11-11, Sun 11-6}: Let’s just say this place is appropriately named. I wasn’t much of a frozen yogurt eater until their “original tart” with fresh fruit took my taste buds hostage. Both the menu and the interior are spare, clean, fresh and bright.

F. Scott’s Restaurant and Jazz Bar {2210 Crestmoor Rd, 615.269.5861, dinner M-Th 5:30-10, F-Sat 5:30-11}: Sophisticated and urbane, F. Scott’s evokes ’20s jazz culture with a refined menu and attentive, polished service. Excellent for a special dinner or just a nightcap in the bar area while listening to some of Nashville’s finest jazz.

Sylvan Park/Charlotte Pike/Fisk University

A mostly residential neighborhood that has been rediscovered by many Nashvillians recently is Sylvan Park. The cute streets named after states are worth a drive around, and there is a sweet little pocket of restaurants on Murphy Road.

The Green Wagon {4429 Murphy Rd, 615.942.7874, 10-7 every day}: Your one-stop shop for earth-friendly bath and body products, soaps, and accessories. Everything is closely scrutinized for earth-friendliness before it’s sold on their shelves, and 70% of what they sell is made in Tennessee! (Have another location in East Nashville as well.)

The Produce Place {4000 Murphy Rd, 615.383.2664, M-F 9-6:30, Sat 8-6}: Nashville’s first market selling high-quality local produce and organic/specialty groceries. Has been going strong in the neighborhood for 20 years!

The Local Taco {4501 Murphy Rd, 615.891.3271, M-Sat 11-10, Sun 11-8}: Fresh, yummy tacos that come in such interesting varieties as Southern fried chicken and Korean BBQ with a nice, open patio on which to enjoy a margarita.

McCabe Pub {4410 Murphy Rd, 615.269.9406, M-Sat 11-11}: Local sports bar with pub grub and Southern fare. Also a nice patio to enjoy a beer or two.

Sylvan Park Restaurant {4502 Murphy Rd, 615.292.9275, M-F 10:30-7:30, Sat 10:30-7}: Southern meat-and-three. See description in “8th Avenue” section.

Miel {343 53rd Ave, 615.298.3663, T-Th 5:30-10, F-Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun brunch 10-2}: A fantastic newer addition to the Nashville food scene, Miel is a sleek, chic bistro offering exquisite seasonal dishes in the French tradition. The interior is intimate and restful – an ideal spot for a quiet dinner.

Bobbie’s Dairy Dip {5301 Charlotte Pk, 615.463.8088, M 11-7, T-Sat 11-10, Sun noon-10}: Just a little slice of cuteness with deliciously creamy soft serve and a kicking peanut butter-chocolate milkshake. Take a step back to 1950 with a malt, float or cream and a burger and fries. Open only during warm months so call to be sure they’re open!

Portland Brew {3431 Murphy Rd, 615.292.9019, M-Sat 7-7}: Sylan Park location of local Portland Brew chain (see 12South section) for a quick coffee stop in the neighborhood.

Hot Kabobs {336 White Bridge Pk, 615.352.7271, M-Th 11-8, F-Sat 11-9, Sun 11-3pm}: I grant you that it does not look like much on the outside, and the name doesn’t do a ton to sell it, but inside is a warm, hospitable setting in which to enjoy mouth-watering Persian food. A hidden treasure on White Bridge Pike!

An exciting development in Nashville’s growth and urban plan is the creation of greenways around town! One of these is situated right in Sylvan Park with trailheads at Utah Avenue, off of White Bridge Pike (obscure entrance – look for tall power station), and McCabe golf course {4601 Murphy Rd}. A stroll on the greenway is a lovely way to escape traffic and get a little fresh air!

On the other side of Charlotte Avenue, you will find Fisk University {1000 17th Ave N, 615.329.8500}, one of the nation’s most prestigious historically black universities. Fisk’s story is a rich tapestry full of incredible, influential thinkers and artists, and, its beautiful and historic campus aside, Fisk also plays home to one of Nashville’s greatest artistic treasures. As executor of her husband’s estate, Georgia O’Keefe parceled out her husband’s vast collection of modern art to several entities, among them the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Philadelphia Muesum of Art, the Library of Congress, the Art Institute of Chicago, and Nashville’s Fisk University. The Alfred Stieglitz Collection {615.329.8720, T-Sat 10-5} contains several of Stieglitz’s own photographs (one particularly lovely portrait of his wife, Georgia O’Keefe), several of O’Keefe’s own paintings, and other works by modern masters like Cezanne, Picasso, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec and their contemporaries. The other room of the collection displays the work of black artists and contains two paintings by Aaron Douglas, a star of the Harlem Renaissance and one-time Fisk professor (Douglas’s murals cover the walls of an administrative building on campus as well if you want to sneak in and see them). A treasure!

West End/Elliston/Midtown

Definitely not suburb and definitely not downtown, midtown spans a wide swath encompassing Vanderbilt University and Centennial Park. Due to its proximity to the Vandy megalith, you’ll find fun, happening stops to eat out, hear some music and imbibe a little.

Centennial Park and The Parthenon {2600 West End Ave, 615.862.8431, T-Sat 9-4:30 (12:30-4:30 Sun in June, July, Aug)}: You might ask yourself why Nashville of all places has a full-sized replica of the Parthenon situated in an urban park. Because of the number of universities located here, Nashville has been called “The Athens of the South,” and to give visual representation to this nickname, the Parthenon replica was built as part of Nashville’s centennial celebration in 1897. While everything else built for the centennial celebration is long since gone, the Parthenon remains a cherished Nashville landmark. Not only is it neat to get an idea of how the Acropolis might have looked once upon a time, the Parthenon now houses art exhibits and a 40-foot-tall statue of Athena, and is in lovely, expansive Centennial Park, a refreshing green space always playing host to joggers, frisbee-throwers and loungers. Centennial Park also welcomes a full schedule of activities throughout the year, including Movies in the Park in the summer, Tango by Moonlight (also in the summer), and the Fall and Spring TACA (Tennessee Association of Craft Artists) Craft Fairs, a must for crafters and lovers of handmade design. Hundreds of artisans from across Tennessee bring their wares to the park, filling it with homemade ceramics, jewelry, table linens, furnture…a perfect way to spend an afternoon.

Scarlett Begonia {2805 West End Ave, 615.329.1272, M-Sat 10-6, Sun 1-5}: Scarlett Begonia showcases a wide selection of South American imports, including carvings, tapestry, bags, knitwares and fabulous jewelry. They also carry women’s apparel from more mainstream labels like Kenzie. A good place to look for a gift!

Elder’s Bookstore {2115 Elliston Pl, 615.327.1867, M-F 10-4:30, Sat 10-4}: If you’re looking for a rare book or have a penchant for Tennessee or Southern History, Elder’s is the place to be. Opened in 1930, it is the oldest bookseller in continuous operation in Tennessee.

Exit/In {2208 Elliston Pl, 615.321.3340, show times vary}: Classic Nashville concert venue highlighting local rock acts almost every night. Check the movie-style marquee out front to see who’s on for the week.

UAL {2918 West End Ave, 615.340.9999, M-Sat 10-7, Sun 12-6}: Ok, while this is not technically a Nashville thing, we are one of four United Apparel Liquidators locations in the South (the others are in Louisiana and Mississippi). If you’re a fashionista wanting to get your hands on the big names in the game at a fraction of the price, UAL is for you. They buy end-of-season clothes and accessories and resell at prices that are actually in many people’s range. I recently saw a pair of Manolo Blahniks alongside a pair of Prada flats. Come ready to dig a bit! Men’s and women’s clothes.

Next door to UAL is Studio 615 {615.256.4575}, a small boutique of trendy tops, dresses and jeans from small design labels at not-insanely-expensive prices. Staffed by a bevy of fun and helpful gals!

J&J’s Market {1912 Broadway (21st Ave becomes Broadway as you approach downtown), 615.327.9055, M-F 7-midnight, Sat 9-midnight, Sun noon-9}: Behind J&J’s unassuming storefront is one of Nashville’s most chilled-out hangout spaces. The front of the store is a little specialty market that opens into a high-ceilinged coffee-bar-by-day, lounge-spot-by-night. Very cool and understated.

The Great Escape {1925 Broadway, 615.327.0646, M-Th 10-9, F-Sat 10-10, Sun 11-7}: The Great Escape opened as a comic book store and now carries not only a wealth of different comics but used and new CDs, DVDs, VHS cassettes and records as well. No telling what you might find on the musty shelves!

Calypso Cafe {2424 Elliston Place, 615.321.3878, M-F 11-9, Sat-Sun 11:30-8:30}: I sometimes feel sad that other cities don’t have Calypso Cafe. Fresh, healthy, cheap, Caribbean, and very veg-friendly, Calypso serves rotisserie chicken, sweet potatoes, callaloo greens, corn muffins…but it all comes down to three words: black bean salad. (3 other locations around town as well, including one in East Nashville)

Rotier’s {2413 Elliston Pl, 615.327.9892, M-F 10:30-10, Sat 10:30-9}: Slightly divey with wood-paneled walls and old-fashioned booths, Nashvillians have been coming to this hole in the wall for decades for arguably the best burgers and shakes in town.

Elliston Place Soda Shop {2111 Elliston Pl, 615.327.1090, M-F 7-5:30, Sat 7-3}: Classic vintage soda shop complete with counter, tile floor, chrome and jukeboxes, Elliston Place Soda Shop has been holding steady for sixty years or so. Another Nashville landmark.

Tin Angel Restaurant {3201 West End Ave, 615.298.3444, M-F 11-10, Sat 5pm-10pm, Sun 11-3}: While you’ll have a fantastic meal no matter what time of day you go, you will have a phenomenal Sunday brunch at Tin Angel. Fried green tomatoes and sweet potato biscuits are requisite for starters, and most plates are big enough to share. Exposed brick walls and a pressed tin ceiling lend a cozy bistro feel to this neighborhood staple.

Woodlands Indian Vegetarian {3415 West End Ave, 615.463.3005, M-F lunch 11-2:30, dinner 5-9:30, Sat-Sun 11:30-10}: Hidden away on the ground floor of an apartment building, Woodlands might just serve up the best Indian fare in town.

The Patterson House {1711 Division St, 615.636.7724, T-Sun 5pm-3am}: Virtually unmarked on the outside, The Patterson House is as close as you’ll come to a 21st-century speakeasy. Come prepared to wait; they’ll only let you in behind the plush velvet curtains when there’s a seat for you. An intimate room with bookshelves and nooks for conversation over the freshest handmade cocktails.

Music Row/Edgehill Village

If you’re a music lover, 16th and 17th Avenues (a.k.a. Music Row) are where the Nashville magic happens, being home to myriad record labels and studios. Nearby you’ll find Edgehill Village, a strip with a lot of potential but where several great business have lately closed – I have high hopes for what will replace them, though! But, if you’ve made your way to this neck of the woods, stop in to Nest Interiors {1200 Villa Pl # 112, 615.383.1511, T-Sat 11-6, occasionally open M}, a chic home interiors shop with an eclectic collection of accents, furniture and accessories. Urban Patio {615.730.9764, M by appointment, T 1-6, W-Sat 11-6}, next door, has a great offering of everything you need to complete your outdoor living space. For a treat, swing by Fat Straw {615.320.4999, M-Th 12-7, F-Sat 12-8, Sun 12-5}, Nashville’s bubble tea salon, or Dulce Desserts {1207 Villa Pl, 615.321.8700, T-F 9-5:30, Sat 9-1}, a gourmet dessert studio with tasty cookies, cupcakes and desserts, or where you can order a custom cake for your next big occasion.

NashVegas and beyond

If you have time, there are some worthy stops to be made outside central Nashville. Here are some that merit a wee trek!

Edwin & Percy Warner Parks {Percy covers land between Highway 100 & Chickering Road with Old Hickory Boulevard acting as a border. Edwin covers land on the other side of Old Hickory Boulevard and Highway 100. 615.352.6299, parks open every day sunrise-11pm}: The parks cover 2,684 acres and are an invaluable resource for Nashvillians wanting to get out and run, bike, walk, hike or just get lost in the trees for a while. The parks have miles of trails and paved roads, two golf courses, and a Steeplechase course for equestrian events, which turns into Nashville’s biggest outdoor see-and-be-seen party every second weekend in May when the Iroquois Steeplechase horserace is held.

Radnor Lake {1160 Otter Creek Rd, 615.251.1471, trails open 6am-dark, visitor center daily 8:30-noon, 1-4}: Another placid sanctuary for nature observation and a quiet walk around the lake. Radnor Lake maintains strict rules about what can be bought into the premises, so no picnicing or biking.

Cheekwood {1200 Forrest Park Dr, 615.356.8000, T-Sat 9:30-4:30, Sun 11-4:30}: Built as the country estate of the Cheeks, the family responsible for bringing Maxwell House Coffee to the world, Cheekwood is now a historic home, botanical garden, and art gallery. Cheekwood always has several intriguing exhibits on display (right now they have on long-term loan a collection of Faberge eggs) in addition to its sculpture trail, wildflower and Japanese gardens. A delightful place to spend an afternoon.

Loveless Cafe {8400 Hwy 100, 615.646.9700, 7am-9pm every day}: A nice drive out Highway 100 will find you at the now-famous Loveless Motel, renowned for its biscuits, ham, and homemade jams and jellies. Warning: unless you want a two-hour wait, do not go during Saturday or Sunday brunch hours. Loveless is right near the beautiful Natchez Trace Parkway, the historic route used to move animals and people between Mississippi and Tennessee and now a gorgeous place for a Sunday drive.

Downtown Franklin: About a half-hour from Nashville is Franklin, a picturesque small town whose Main Street is lined with boutiques and whose old houses have been beautifully preserved and restored. Franklin is a worthy side-trip for any lover of design not only for its downtown architecture, but also for the wealth of excellent shops there. A perfect place to park and stroll for a day of window-shopping and a bite to eat.

• Rock Paper Scissors (317 Main St # 110, 615.791.0150, M-F 10-6, Sat 10-5): It can be hard to find great stationery in Nashville, so it’s nice to know that Rock Paper Scissors is there for us. Carrying cards from Sugar Paper, Oblation, Smock, and a line of their own designs, as well as gorgeous sheets of wrapping paper, Rock Paper Scissors is a must-stop in Franklin for paper lovers.
• The Iron Gate {338 Main St, 615.791.7511×4, M-Sat 10-5}: Someone at The Iron Gate has an eye for items that will make a home at the same time luxurious and livable, antique and new. Everything from a vast array of designer soaps and candles to the most beautiful collection of corals and shells you’ve ever seen to antique French leather club chairs and linens by Bella Notte, The Iron Gate is bound to have something to make your home more comfortable and visually interesting.
• Lulu {345 Main St, 615.794.3345, M-Sat 10-5}: Home store in crisp palette of white, florals and pinks offering bed linens, tableware, and fun accents for the home.
• redo {300 Public Square, 615.790.3989, T-Sat 10-5}: An interior design studio and warehouse (300 Eddy Pike, also in Franklin) with everything you need to redo your home. In-house, local craftsmen make furniture, plus rugs, fabrics, window treatments so you can make your space your own.
• Haven {343 Main St, 615.790.7954, M-Sat 10-6}: Lovely clothing store where design and presentation are as important as the wares themselves – a treat just to walk through. Clothes by Free People, jewelry, home accessories.
• Emmaline {400 Main St #130, 615.791.6205, M-Sat 10-5}: Women’s clothing boutique seeking to bring a little bit of understated, ladylike New York chic to Franklin. Wide selection of high-end denim and clothes by Nanette Lepore, Velvet, Rebecca Taylor.

Franklin is a surefire destination for the antiquer. The options can be a bit overwhelming (and prices in this moneyed suburb can be a bit high) so here are a few favorites:

• Scarlett Scales Antiques {212 S Margin St, 615.791.4097, M-Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5}: An old shotgun house full of treasures ranging from rare purple glass bottles to old printing dies to cool jewelry made of buttons. Not your typical antiques fare.
• Country Charm Antique Mall {301 Lewisburg Ave, 615.790.8908, M-Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5}: A little bit off the main drag, Country Charm is a fun stop for those who like to dig a bit and not pay through the nose for fun finds.
• Franklin Marketplace {117 3rd Ave N, 615.595.2887, M-Sat 10-5}: A beautiful old home housing the collections of several vendors with gorgeous old furniture re-upholstered in funky fabrics, rustic tables, vintage nighties, some collections of new clothes by small designers, and vintage clothes for men and women.

For a bite to eat while doing some Franklin shopping, you must visit Merridee’s Breadbasket {110 4th Ave S, 615.790.3755, M-Sat 7-5}, Franklin’s hometown bakery where every loaf of bread, pie and cookie is made from scratch – wonderful breakfast, lunch and snacks in a darling setting with baskets hanging from the ceiling and blue-and-white checkers all around. For a heartier bite, Puckett’s Grocery {120 4th Ave S, 615.794.5527, T-Sat 7-9, Sun-Mon 7-3} serves up Southern fare in a country market setting. And for just a snack, Franklin’s two cupcakeries, naticakes {328 Main St, 615.807.1133, T-Th 10-6, F-Sat 10-8, Sun 1-6} and IveyCake {100 4th Ave N, 615.595.4353, T-W 11-4, Th-Sat 11-7}, offer a feast for the eyes and the palate.